SV: SV: [CR]Linseed oil and shellac.

(Example: Component Manufacturers:Cinelli)

From: "Olof Stroh" <olof.stroh@hem.utfors.se>
To: "Kenneth Stagg" <kstagg@harbornet.com>
Cc: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <95.54a4639.278cb26e@aol.com> <007b01c07a73$763fe320$a42969d4@oemcomputer> <3A5B6BF8.FF402A7@harbornet.com>
Subject: SV: SV: [CR]Linseed oil and shellac.
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:44:44 +0100


> What's "hydrofob"? AS for the flexibility, you may be right but shellac is
> still relatively flexible. One very intersting thing that I've found from my
> woodworking hobby is that shellac is a better vapor barrier than linseed oil or
> other varnishes. Seems somewhat counter-intuitive, doesn't it? BTW, I don't
> think that linseed oil varnish will ever get hard enough to craze with the small
> amount of flexibility in a bicycle frame.
>
> -Ken

Sorry Ken, I think I´m mixing languages! Hydrofobe? "Water-enemy", rejects water, like butter. And russin is raisin!

Vapor barrier depends (I know very little of shellacs properties though). If you use it as penetrating oil on wood it replaces water within the wood, but there will still be channels for vapour even if not for fluid water. If painted diluted with thinner or petroleum etc the dilutive medium will leave pores when leaving as vapour.

You may get hard and shiny linseed varnish by using boiled undiluted linseed oil in _very_thin layers, applied with a heavy hand, letting them dry thoroughly between (and polishing between as well). Not to be done inside a narrow steel tube!

Bicycle content: Bought a set of Mafac brake levers for _two_ cables/lever today. Was said to be for tandem use. Bought them mostly for fun, experience somebody?

Olof in Uppsala