Dave, I'm not sure what you're asking. Please clarify.
Brian Baylis
>
> What about a nickel layer under the chrome? I remember Ten Speed Drive
> making a big deal about the multi-layer copper, nickel, and chrome on their
> frames in the 1980;'s. At least on the top of the line Ciocc and Tomasso
> frames, the plating looked great, but how did it last and did the nickel
> have anything to do with it?
>
> David Feldman
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Baylis" <rocklube@adnc.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 12:12 AM
> Subject: [CR]A few words about chrome plating
>
> > Listmembers,
> >
> > There are a few key points regarding chrome plating that weren't
> > completely addressed, which I'd like to illuminate since the topic came
> > up.
> >
> > First, it is of prime importance to have a very good relationship with
> > ones' plater if one expects excellent results while avoiding the
> > pitfalls that can (but do not neccessarily have to) accompany a chrome
> > plating job. The problem of drainage is easily solved by one of two
> > methods. The best one is not to have any holes in the seat stays or fork
> > blades in the first place. The only safe way to accomplish this is
> > during the framebuilding process; filling the one vent hole in the fork
> > or stay just after brazing the final joint that encloses the tube while
> > it is still hot. Trying to fill a hole afterwards is risky and is a
> > pretty good way to insure that a small pinhole will allow plating
> > solution to enter and have no way to escape. So for resorations it is
> > best to make sure each stay and blade hace two holes at opposite ends
> > that are about 3/32" in diameter. Any GOOD plater can work with that and
> > give the owner of the frame the ability to introduce a rust inhibitor
> > AFTER the paint job is applied.
> >
> > Regarding polishing. Yes it is dangerous, providing the plater (which
> > includes all but the one I use) goes about it with the polishing lathes
> > that Jim described. The exceptional plater will have developed a
> > "secret" method to accomplish this task without risk to frame or human
> > body. As luck would have it, the polisher at my plater is a good friend
> > of mine (we have an interest in drums and drumming in common) and has
> > passed this trick on to me; which I can use myself if I'm so inclined
> > (which usually I'm not). But, it is quite safe and only requires some
> > time and effort to accomplish, along with a few special tools and
> > whatnot.
> >
> > Only a really careless or inexperienced plater can accomplish hydrogen
> > embrittlement on a frame. It's not easy to do. As far as I know, only
> > about a half an hour at 300 or so degrees is required to disipate the
> > effect. Maybe industrial (or "hard" chrome) requires 12 to 24 hours at
> > temp., but not decorative chrome like we use. Modern nickel formulations
> > take the place of the old "triple chrome" process and work perfectly
> > well. Like Jim said, copper is for heavily pitted parts these days. If a
> > frame is that bad off, it's probably best not to chrome (or maybe even
> > ride) it at that point.
> >
> > The chrome I get from my plater is mirrorlike; it's all in the polishing
> > and keeping clean tanks.
> >
> > As far as a completely chrome frame goes, OUCH! Costs a bit of money for
> > a good plater to do it; so there's no point in doubling it by sending it
> > to someone else to hand to a plater. Find you own guy and save the money
> > for a payment on your Ferarri, like Joe said. Good luck.
> >
> > Brian Baylis