[CR]re.omas

(Example: Humor:John Pergolizzi)

From: "Steve Clark" <steve@sjscycles.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 12:29:03 +0100
In-Reply-To: <CATFOODvJVzJKbMsKRx00002b86@catfood.nt.phred.org>
Subject: [CR]re.omas

folks, regarding OMAS components,the following items may be of interest: #3333BLK Omas-Saba alloy 1 inch threaded anodised black headset,25.4 x 24 tpi (Italian thread ) . CAUTION ! Can only achieve a class B fit on english thread ( 26 tpi ) forks. @£21.26 ex vat #3333BLU Omas-Saba alloy 1 inch threaded anodised blue headset,25.4 x 24 tpi (Italian thread ) . CAUTION ! Can only achieve a class B fit on english thread ( 26 tpi ) forks. @£21.26 ex vat #3333RED Omas-Saba alloy 1 inch threaded anodised red headset,25.4 x 24 tpi (Italian thread ) . CAUTION ! Can only achieve a class B fit on english thread ( 26 tpi ) forks. @£21.26 ex vat Carriage to USA approx £10.00 for up to 6 headsets. regards,

Steve Clarke St John St Cycles 91-93 St John Street Bridgwater Somerset TA6 5HX Tel: 01278-441542 (Int ++44-1278-441544) Fax: 01278 431107 (Int ++44-1278-431107) mailto:steve@sjscycles.com http://www.sjscycles.com The information contained in this message may be confidential and is intended for the addressee only. Any unauthorised use, dissemination of the information, or copying of this message is prohibited. If you are not the addressee, please notify the sender immediately by return email and delete this message. The views expressed in this email are not that of the organisation unless specified within the message. Although this e-mail and any attachments are believed to be free of any virus, or other defect which might affect any computer or system into which they are received and opened, it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free and no responsibility is accepted by St John St Cycles for any loss or damage from receipt or use thereof.

}-----Original Message----- }From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org }[mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of }classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org }Sent: 13 August 2003 01:14 }To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 8, Issue 29 } } }Send Classicrendezvous mailing list submissions to } classicrendezvous@bikelist.org } }To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit } http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous }or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to } classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org } }You can reach the person managing the list at } classicrendezvous-owner@bikelist.org } }When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more }specific than "Re: Contents of Classicrendezvous digest..." } } }CR } }Today's Topics: } } 1. Phil Wood Disc Brake (Paul Haussler) } 2. Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or should I replace? } (Steve Neago) } 3. RE: Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or should I } replace? (David Bilenkey) } 4. FW: Pump parts? (David Bilenkey) } 5. Re: Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or should I } replace? (Steve Neago) } 6. Re: Caylor Frame (Matthew Grimm) } 7. Cool Peugeot (wayofftheback) } 8. possibly good deal on a Raleigh GS on E-Bay (wayofftheback) } 9. WTB Delta brake blocks (Mark Stevens) } 10. Electa saddle came today (Tom Sanders) } 11. British Eagle- 1980's Frame builder (Phil) } 12. Wanted / Trade : Campy Skewer, Flat (Donald Gillies) } 13. Re: Bike Brand Signature Colors (Joe Starck) } 14. Re: Phil Wood Disc Brake (Joe Bender-Zanoni) } 15. Re: British Eagle- 1980's Frame builder (Joe Bender-Zanoni) } 16. Re: Bike Brand Signature Colors (jerrymoos) } 17. Hubs for Jack Taylor Tandem (HM & SS Sachs) } 18. re: Phil wood brake (HM & SS Sachs) } } }---------------------------------------------------------------------- } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 12:31:28 -0700 }From: "Paul Haussler" <paulhaussler@earthlink.net> }To: <jb5612@gte.net> }Cc: tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu }Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: [CR]Phil Wood Disc Brake }Message-ID: <003001c36108$53fc9280$911bf4d8@q> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Reply-To: Paul Haussler <paulhaussler@earthlink.net> }Message: 1 } }Joel, } }I'm new to the list, but have heard a lot of criticism over }the years about the Phil Disc Brake. I can appreciate }installing one to restore a classic bike, but I would not want }to rely on it to stop a tandem. } }Someone on the Tandem@Hobbes list may have some ideas. E-mail }me if you need a link. } }Tailwinds, } }Paul Haussler, }Huntington Beach }1988 Trek (Tupperware and aluminum) }1992 Dave Moulton Custom Fuso Luxe }1997 Santana Arriva } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 07:14:04 -0700 }From: "Joel Butera" <jb5612@gte.net> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: [CR]Phil wood brake }Message-ID: <002301c360db$ffdf3b70$d764a8c0@D7NSBQ11> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Message: 11 } }Hi all } }I am trying to put a Phil wood Tandem Disc Brake on and }missing the cable barrels } }That fit into the actuators on the brake one is a adjustor the }other a termination end } }Can anyone help or steer me in the right direction } } } }Joel Butera } }Santa Barbara Ca } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:37:32 -0400 }From: "Steve Neago" <questor@cinci.rr.com> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: [CR]Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or }should I replace? }Message-ID: <001501c36109$2f874520$03000004@cinci.rr.com> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="Windows-1252" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable }Precedence: list }Message: 2 } }Hello, } }I have a Raleigh Team Pro frameset with a Campy #660 control }boss that = needs minor repair. Apparently, the previous }owner managed to strip the = threads on the right side control }boss by inserting misalligned the = #604/1 adjusting wing nut. } The result is that the downtube shifter wing = nut will screw }in, but not tighten properly & causes unwanted gear = changes. } }Do you have any suggestions on how I repair/redo the control }boss = threads without having to repalce the complete control }boss? I can = purchase a metric tap set, but the original }threads are probably too = loose. I do not want to have to }glue the adjusting wing nut into the = control boss. Also, I }prefer not to use handlebar fingertip shifters. } }Any suggestions? } }Thanks, Steve Neago }Cincinnati, OH } }--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/alternative } text/plain (text body -- kept) } text/html }--- }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:45:17 -0400 }From: "David Bilenkey" <dbilenkey@sympatico.ca> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: RE: [CR]Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or should I } replace? }Message-ID: <HBECIOPCNPKEJLCJBKNKMEPFGKAA.dbilenkey@sympatico.ca> }In-Reply-To: <001501c36109$2f874520$03000004@cinci.rr.com> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="Windows-1252" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Reply-To: dbilenkey@sympatico.ca }Message: 3 } }Couldn't you repair the threads with a Helicoil? Or is it some }obscure threading? } }http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html } }I've used lots of them over the years, on all sorts of things, }I think the last one was on stripped threads on an early 60's }Campy FD cable clamping bolt hole. } }David Bilenkey }Ottawa, Ontario, Canada } } }> -----Original Message----- }> From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org }> [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org]On Behalf Of Steve }> Neago }> Sent: August 12, 2003 3:38 PM }> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }> Subject: [CR]Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or should I }> replace? }> }> }> Hello, }> }> I have a Raleigh Team Pro frameset with a Campy #660 control }boss that }> needs minor repair. Apparently, the previous owner managed to strip }> the threads on the right side control boss by inserting misalligned }> the #604/1 adjusting wing nut. The result is that the downtube }> shifter wing nut will screw in, but not tighten properly & causes }> unwanted gear changes. }> }> Do you have any suggestions on how I repair/redo the control boss }> threads without having to repalce the complete control boss? I can }> purchase a metric tap set, but the original threads are probably too }> loose. I do not want to have to glue the adjusting wing nut }into the }> control boss. Also, I prefer not to use handlebar fingertip }shifters. }> }> Any suggestions? }> }> Thanks, Steve Neago }> Cincinnati, OH } } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:52:36 -0400 }From: "David Bilenkey" <dbilenkey@sympatico.ca> }To: "Classicrendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: [CR]FW: Pump parts? }Message-ID: <HBECIOPCNPKEJLCJBKNKGEPGGKAA.dbilenkey@sympatico.ca> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="Windows-1252" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Reply-To: dbilenkey@sympatico.ca }Message: 4 } }Has anyone on the list heard of this before? If you can offer }any info or advice on what to do I'll pass responses on to my friend. } }Thanks in advance, } }David Bilenkey }Ottawa, Ontario, Canada } } }-----Original Message----- }From: Simpson, Bob }Sent: August 5, 2003 11:07 AM }To: David Bilenkey (E-mail) }Subject: Pump parts } } }Hi David, } }A friend at work has what looks like an antique bicycle pump, }which has a cylinder around the outside with desiccating }material so that the air pumped is dry. It was actually }discarded from the NRC, so it might not have been originally }designed for bikes. It's called an Andrews 876-A pump and has }a barrel 34 mm in diameter. Have you ever heard of such a }pump and do you have any sources for replacement pump parts? }The leather washer/plunger has torn. } }Bob Simpson } } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 16:12:54 -0400 }From: "Steve Neago" <questor@cinci.rr.com> }To: <dbilenkey@sympatico.ca> }Cc: classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: Re: [CR]Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or should I } replace? }Message-ID: <000701c3610e$2090c1e0$cbb71b18@cinci.rr.com> }References: <HBECIOPCNPKEJLCJBKNKMEPFGKAA.dbilenkey@sympatico.ca> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="Windows-1252" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Message: 5 } }Hi Dave, } }Thanks for the idea, but the wing nut must be inserted firmly }into the control boss so there is no slip. I am concerned }that the insert springs you suggest will require me to }re-drill the hole to accomodate the spring size and that the }spring will not allow wing nut to be completely tightened and }will cause slip. } }Does anyone know if there is a soft-metal insert that can bond }to the frame boss so I can re-tap the hole? I think that lead }solder is way too soft and will not adhere properly for this... } }Regards, Steve Neago }Cincinnati, OH } }----- Original Message ----- }From: "David Bilenkey" <dbilenkey@sympatico.ca> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 3:45 PM }Subject: RE: [CR]Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or }should I replace? } } }> Couldn't you repair the threads with a Helicoil? Or is it }some obscure }> threading? }> }> http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html }> }> I've used lots of them over the years, on all sorts of }things, I think }> the last one was on stripped threads on an early 60's Campy FD cable }> clamping bolt hole. }> }> David Bilenkey }> Ottawa, Ontario, Canada }> }> }> > -----Original Message----- }> > From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org }> > [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org]On Behalf Of Steve }> > Neago }> > Sent: August 12, 2003 3:38 PM }> > To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }> > Subject: [CR]Campy #660 braze-on control boss - repair or should I }> > replace? }> > }> > }> > Hello, }> > }> > I have a Raleigh Team Pro frameset with a Campy #660 control boss }> > that needs minor repair. Apparently, the previous owner }managed to }> > strip the threads on the right side control boss by inserting }> > misalligned the #604/1 adjusting wing nut. The result is that the }> > downtube shifter wing nut will screw in, but not tighten }properly & }> > causes unwanted gear changes. }> > }> > Do you have any suggestions on how I repair/redo the control boss }> > threads without having to repalce the complete control }boss? I can }> > purchase a metric tap set, but the original threads are }probably too }> > loose. I do not want to have to glue the adjusting wing nut into }> > the control boss. Also, I prefer not to use handlebar fingertip }> > shifters. }> > }> > Any suggestions? }> > }> > Thanks, Steve Neago }> > Cincinnati, OH }> }> }> _______________________________________________ }> Classicrendezvous mailing list }> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous } } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 13:15:57 -0700 (PDT) }From: Matthew Grimm <matthewgrimm@yahoo.com> }To: johnprescott@mindspring.com }Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: Re: [CR]Caylor Frame }Message-ID: <20030812201557.70191.qmail@web41502.mail.yahoo.com> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Precedence: list }Message: 6 } } }The builder's name is Gunnar Caylor. } }He started building in Modesto around '69. He was a }mechanic at a local Schwinn dealer and he built frames }on the side. } }I remember his work being very clean. And the decals }were crisp and clean too. } }I saw him about seven or eight years ago. } }I'm gonna be in Modesto on Friday. If you'd like, I }can try to run him down for you. } }Email me off list if you'd like to know anything }specific. } }All the best, } }Matthew Grimm }Kogswell Cycles }http://kogswell.com } } } } } }__________________________________ }Do you Yahoo!? }Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design }software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 14:23:17 -0700 (PDT) }From: wayofftheback <wayofftheback@yahoo.com> }To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: [CR]Cool Peugeot }Message-ID: <20030812212317.81962.qmail@web20106.mail.yahoo.com> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Precedence: list }Message: 7 } }Being sold by Cyclo 24--not I, no relation to me } }Here it is http://tinyurl.com/jten } }or } }http://ebay.com/<blah> }ategoryr98 } }Regards, } }John Taglia }Chicago } }==}John Taglia }Chicago, Illinois } }__________________________________ }Do you Yahoo!? }Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design }software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 14:42:16 -0700 (PDT) }From: wayofftheback <wayofftheback@yahoo.com> }To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: [CR]possibly good deal on a Raleigh GS on E-Bay }Message-ID: <20030812214216.5221.qmail@web20105.mail.yahoo.com> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Precedence: list }Message: 8 } }No relation, not mine } }http://ebay.com/<blah> }ndexURL=1&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting } }Regards, } }John Taglia }Chicago } }==}John Taglia }Chicago, Illinois } }__________________________________ }Do you Yahoo!? }Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design }software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 22:44:42 +0100 }From: "Mark Stevens" <mountgerald@btopenworld.com> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: [CR]WTB Delta brake blocks }Message-ID: <003b01c3611a$f80f6bb0$df468351@DJN4ZQ0J> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Message: 9 } }Hi all, just out of time line but here goes. I spent the }afternoon stripping and cleaning a pair of Campagnolo Delta }brakes. These things are incredible. I am looking forward to }riding the aero framed Holdsworth (circa 1983) with them }fitted, it'll be a first. I desperately need 2 pairs of brake }blocks to finish it all off. Can anyone help,please? Mark }Stevens in hot Scotland. } } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 17:45:43 -0400 }From: "Tom Sanders" <tsan7759142@comcast.net> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: [CR]Electa saddle came today }Message-ID: <000e01c3611b$187ca8e0$49f0f50c@C1921978A> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable }Precedence: list }Reply-To: Tom Sanders <tsan7759142@comcast.net> }Message: 10 } }The NOS Campy Electa saddle I had purchased came today. I }have taken = some pics of the underside, etc. that are not }normally seen. If anyone = is curious about it, I'll forward }you some J-Pegs. Drop me a line off = line if interested. Tom }Sanders Lansing, Mi } }--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/alternative } text/plain (text body -- kept) } text/html }--- }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 17:55:20 -0400 }From: "Phil" <pdscott@gte.net> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: [CR]British Eagle- 1980's Frame builder }Message-ID: <001301c3611c$6e18bf40$1b88e943@5dstx> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Message: 11 } }Anyone know who built the british eagle bikes in the late }80's? I know Falcon or Townsend owns the name now! } }Phil Scott }Clatyon,Ohio } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:54:25 -0700 (PDT) }From: Donald Gillies <gillies@cs.ubc.ca> }To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: [CR]Wanted / Trade : Campy Skewer, Flat }Message-ID: <200308122254.PAA11772@cascade.cs.ubc.ca> }Precedence: list }Message: 12 } }Hi, I have a mismatched pair of low-flange campy hubs, and I'm }looking for someone else with a similar problem. } }Wanted : one flat (pre-1977) front campy skewer in decent condition. } }Offer : (a) $15.00 } (b) I can trade a used curved one + $5.00 for your flat one. } (c) I can trade a NOS curved one for your flat one. } (d) I can trade an entire NOS low-flange front hub, you give } me $20 and the flat skewer. } }- Don Gillies }San Diego, CA }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:59:51 -0700 (PDT) }From: Joe Starck <josephbstarck@yahoo.com> }To: "Kahrl, Michael" <Michael.Kahrl@compuware.com> }Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: Re: [CR]Bike Brand Signature Colors }Message-ID: <20030812225951.76719.qmail@web42003.mail.yahoo.com> }In-Reply-To: <83B98D01E8D5D41196DB0008C75F74CD1E0A2B@CWUS-DTW-EXT03> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Precedence: list }Message: 13 } }Michael asked, "Have any of you sought a bike in a particular }color because you can only imagine it one way?" } }Yes. A one-of-a-kind, Joe Starck-built beam bike lost }somewhere near downtown San Diego: Black with white "Starck" }decals on down tube. The last time I saw it, it was Moonlit Black. } }- Joe Starck, Sun Prairie, Wisconsin } } } } } } }--------------------------------- }Do you Yahoo!? }The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. } }--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/alternative } text/plain (text body -- kept) } text/html }--- }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 19:02:37 -0400 }From: Joe Bender-Zanoni <joebz@optonline.net> }To: Paul Haussler <paulhaussler@earthlink.net>, jb5612@gte.net }Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: Re: [CR]Phil Wood Disc Brake }Message-ID: <004701c36125$d40e5860$6400a8c0@jfbender> }References: <003001c36108$53fc9280$911bf4d8@q> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT }Precedence: list }Message: 14 } }Supposedly the composite disks shatter. } }I had one I contemplated putting on my old Santana tandem to }replace a clunky but effective Shimano unit. } }I called Phil and they refused to discuss the unit or provide }the instruction sheet. They simply said they do not support of }give any advice about the disk brake. Sounds like a lawsuit }settlement condition to me. } }So I stuck with the good ol' Shimano. } }Joe Bender-Zanoni }Great Notch, NJ }----- Original Message ----- }From: "Paul Haussler" <paulhaussler@earthlink.net> }To: <jb5612@gte.net> }Cc: <tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu>; <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 3:31 PM }Subject: [CR]Phil Wood Disc Brake } } }> Joel, }> }> I'm new to the list, but have heard a lot of criticism over the years }about }> the Phil Disc Brake. I can appreciate installing one to restore a }> classic bike, but I would not want to rely on it to stop a tandem. }> }> Someone on the Tandem@Hobbes list may have some ideas. E-mail me if }> you need a link. }> }> Tailwinds, }> }> Paul Haussler, }> Huntington Beach }> 1988 Trek (Tupperware and aluminum) }> 1992 Dave Moulton Custom Fuso Luxe }> 1997 Santana Arriva }> }> ------------------------------ }> }> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 07:14:04 -0700 }> From: "Joel Butera" <jb5612@gte.net> }> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }> Subject: [CR]Phil wood brake }> Message-ID: <002301c360db$ffdf3b70$d764a8c0@D7NSBQ11> }> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii" }> MIME-Version: 1.0 }> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }> Precedence: list }> Message: 11 }> }> Hi all }> }> I am trying to put a Phil wood Tandem Disc Brake on and missing the }> cable barrels }> }> That fit into the actuators on the brake one is a adjustor }the other a }> termination end }> }> Can anyone help or steer me in the right direction }> }> }> }> Joel Butera }> }> Santa Barbara Ca }> }> _______________________________________________ }> Classicrendezvous mailing list }> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 19:07:19 -0400 }From: Joe Bender-Zanoni <joebz@optonline.net> }To: Phil <pdscott@gte.net>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: Re: [CR]British Eagle- 1980's Frame builder }Message-ID: <006001c36126$7ba3f4e0$6400a8c0@jfbender> }References: <001301c3611c$6e18bf40$1b88e943@5dstx> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT }Precedence: list }Message: 15 } }Maybe Falcon. Falcon had a second line on display at the New }York show about 1975. This second line had the first powder }coated finish I had heard of and they were beating sample }tubes together to show it wouldn't chip. } }Joe B-Z }Great Notch, NJ } } }----- Original Message ----- }From: "Phil" <pdscott@gte.net> }To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 5:55 PM }Subject: [CR]British Eagle- 1980's Frame builder } } }> Anyone know who built the british eagle bikes in the late }80's? I know }> Falcon or Townsend owns the name now! }> }> Phil Scott }> Clatyon,Ohio }> }> _______________________________________________ }> Classicrendezvous mailing list }> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 18:17:01 -0500 }From: "jerrymoos" <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net> }To: "Kahrl, Michael" <Michael.Kahrl@compuware.com>, } <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Subject: Re: [CR]Bike Brand Signature Colors }Message-ID: <004401c36127$d71da950$efddfea9@mooshome> }References: <83B98D01E8D5D41196DB0008C75F74CD1E0A2B@CWUS-DTW-EXT03> }Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Message: 16 } }Holdsworth orange and blue }Paramount all chrome }Crescent stainless steel }LeJeune blood red }Colnago international orange }Raleigh Pro mink blue and silver }Cinellli silver }Mercier pink }Legnano "Legnano green" }Bianchi celeste (so called) }Torpado real celeste }Flandria red }Gios "Gios blue" } }The list goes on... } }Regards, } }Jerry Moos }Houston, TX } } }----- Original Message ----- }From: "Kahrl, Michael" <Michael.Kahrl@compuware.com> }To: <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> }Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 10:14 AM }Subject: [CR]Bike Brand Signature Colors } } }> As a bike enthusiast from a small town my impressionable }young mind was }> dazzled the first time I participated in a big century ride. } I saw bikes }> in colors that I never imagined existed. In the years that followed }> as }the }> bike boom rose I have permanently seared into my mind's eye colors }> associated with particular brands. Did anyone else }experience a similar }> thing? Have any of you sought a bike in a particular color because }> you }can }> only imagine it one way? Here are some of mine: }> }> Peugeot: White }> Gitane: Purple }> Austro Daimler: Black }> Raleigh: Green }> Falcon: Light Blue }> }> Michael Kahrl }> Columbus, Ohio }> }> }> }> The contents of this e-mail are intended for the named }addressee only. }> It contains information that may be confidential. Unless you are the }> named addressee or an authorized designee, you may not copy }or use it, }> or }disclose }> it to anyone else. If you received it in error please notify us }immediately }> and then destroy it. }> }> _______________________________________________ }> Classicrendezvous mailing list }> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous }> } } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 19:37:05 -0400 }From: HM & SS Sachs <sachs@erols.com> }To: raleypc@netscape.net, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: [CR]Hubs for Jack Taylor Tandem }Message-ID: <3F397A21.1050403@erols.com> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Message: 17 } }Paul Raley wrote: } }Does anyone know what hubs would have been originally }specified for a 1965 Jack Taylor Sports Tandem? When I bought }mine as a basket case several years ago it came with a Campy }36h track front hub and an Atom 36h drum brake rear. I built }it up this way but suspected that they were not original as }the Atom hub was laced to a steel Schwinn 27" rim! In any }case, I would like to switch to a conventional rear hub (the }drum brake makes flat repair a chore) and would rather not }spend the $$$ for a Campy rear track to match the front if it }was not original! Any suggestions? } }------------- } }I first worked on one of these about '69, a bit younger, but }brand new. That one still had the old-style }chain-stay-mounted rear derailleur (the kind with a door }spring to under the BB for tension). So, they were no slaves }to racer fads... I don't think you could do wrong with either }Campy road HF, or, better, Airlite Continentals (good luck }finding them). } }Fashions change, and brakes have improved, but I personally }have always cherished the redundancy of having a decent hub }brake as well as a pair of rim brakes on the tandem. For 1965, }that leaves few choices if you want to be original. One dead }give-away of an un-original Atom hub would be if your }freewheels feel very loose going on (French thread). Another }would be humongous spoke holes -- and I'd expect 40 holes on a }proper British tandem of the age. And Jack Taylor build }proper tandems. } }harvey sachs }mcLean va } } }------------------------------ } }Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 20:05:26 -0400 }From: HM & SS Sachs <sachs@erols.com> }To: jb5612@gte.net, Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }Subject: re: [CR]Phil wood brake }Message-ID: <3F3980C6.70903@erols.com> }Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed }MIME-Version: 1.0 }Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit }Precedence: list }Message: 18 } }Joel Butera wrote: }Hi all } }I am trying to put a Phil wood Tandem Disc Brake on and }missing the cable barrels } }That fit into the actuators on the brake one is a adjustor the }other a termination end } }Can anyone help or steer me in the right direction. } }=====}My salvage box of hub brakes has 3 Phils in it -- but NONE of the }adjustors or terminators. Bummer. What I do have is a copy }of the Phil }instructions, which I can copy and mail to anyone who sends a SSAE. I }can also take a picture of the fittings on our Cannondale }tandem, which }still uses a Phil. } }Please remember that all but the very last of the Phil brakes used an }unreinforced fibre disk. I've been on one tandem with the earlier }brake, when the splines gave way on a hard downhill. A bit }disconcerting, but the rim brakes worked. I also have one of the last }series, with a metal-reinforced disk -- completely fried by friends. } }Sooo, to me the Morals are pretty simple: The Phil is elegantly }designed and made, more like a clutch and pressure plate }assembly from a }car than a customary disk brake. It must be treated gently, }and should }not be relied on for more than light drag applications. It is }extinct, }and I suspect that parts are all-but-unavailable. Peter Jon White had }one of the last batch of 8 ever made. Besides that, it is the only }"disk" type brake that I have ever used that was as awkward as a drum. } Modern disks, and the old Shimano E, left all the adjustable thingees }on the frame, and just the disk dropped out with the wheel. }Be careful }for what you wish for: I wanted a Phil brake for years, and have not }been as pleased as with their other products. } } }harvey sachs }mcLean VA. } }------------------------------ } }_______________________________________________ }Classicrendezvous mailing list }Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org }http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvou}s } } } }End of Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 8, Issue 29 } }************************************************ }