Re: [CR]A tip: Seatpost slides down

(Example: Framebuilding:Norris Lockley)

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 22:16:34 -0500
From: "Joe Bender-Zanoni" <joebz@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [CR]A tip: Seatpost slides down
To: Jon Schaer <jschaer@columbus.rr.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
References: <BAY4-F18jZpt5OMuJGF0000844b@hotmail.com> <00bc01c3a271$e92dc180$6400a8c0@jfbender> <00fd01c3a27a$f7ecb1a0$89245f18@columbus.rr.com>


I was talking about solid ears, which are basically impossible to bend.. Opening up bent ears is best done by prying as you suggest.

Joe Bender-Zanoni
Great Notch, NJ


----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Schaer
To: Joe Bender-Zanoni


<classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 9:25 PM Subject: Re: [CR]A tip: Seatpost slides down


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Bender-Zanoni" <joebz@optonline.net>
> >
> > The trick to opening up the slot is to use TWO hacksaw blades in the
> hacksaw
> > frame, side by side. Works like a charm.
>
> Joe/All,
>
> I'd be cautious using this technique. If the binder ears have bent inward
> enough to touch, the lack of seatpost clamping force is only 1/2 of the
> problem, which relieving the binder ears does solve. The other problem is
> that the hole in each ear is no longer parallel and co-axial. This causes
> the binder bolt to bend as it is tightened, and can cause failures just like
> non-parallel rear drops can cause hub axle breakages. I have preferred to
> try to set them back in place by using a stout round-shaft screwdriver (or
> similar) for leverage, or by prying outward from the slot side with a stout
> flat-blade screwdriver. These techniques have downsides, too, though. The
> binder bolt hole or slot edge can get distorted from localized pressure. I
> always try to use the largest tool possible in each case.

>

> Jon Schaer

> Columbus, OH