With all respect, I don't like Sheldon's methods either (vise or friction clamping tool). The vise in particular just won't work in frustrating cases as you will always twist the flats out of the vice jaws.
Get yourself an 11" Diamond Tool and Horseshoe Monkey (aka Ford or auto) Wrench.
Where?
http://www.mytoolstore.com/
Best tool money you will ever spend.
Get yourself a length of 1/2" threaded rod, nuts to fit, washers to fit and really big honking washers to fit a BB dia.
Get a pipe. AKA cheater bar.
Pull the adjustable cup. Adjust and attach the wrench to the flats on the fixed cup. Bolt on the wrench with the threaded rod rig through the fixed cup.
This wrench can now go nowhere. It is forged tool steel. It has milled faces square on the cup flats.
Hold the frame keeping in mind the torque potential on the tube. Insert cheater bar over the handle and give a twist in the CORRECT direction. Keep that in mind because you now have enough force available on the cup to take the threads out if you twist the wrong way..
Try it. You will wonder why anyone ever thought pulling a fixed cup was a problem.
Joe Bender-Zanoni
Great Notch, NJ
> So Sheldon, what do you do when it comes down to your last technique to
get
> the *&>.%$ loose? Teach us some Latin swear words too.
>
> Dennis Young
> Hotaka, Japan
>
>
> >> The following is my "when all else fails" technique for removing stuck
> >> cups. I braze a 1 inch nut onto the side of the cup, then remove the
cup
> >> with a large 1 inch box wrench or socket. It works every time.
> >> Afterwards the nut can be removed from the cup with a little heat from
> >> the torch.
> >
> > That seems unnecessarily drastic and risky.
> >
> > See: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
> >
> > Sheldon "No Torch Needed" Brown
> > Newtonville, Massachusetts
> > +