[CR]Silca Pumps/Campy Blue Plastic Socks

> Is there a source for those little blue leg covers (dare I say nipples) for
> steel campy silca pump heads.
> Mine dried up years ago.
>
> Amir
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <raleighpro@dejazzd.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 1:14 AM
> Subject: [CR]Silca Pumps revisited
>
>
> > Just when you thought this had gone away......
> > Found this on Spectrum Cycles site:
> > http://www.spectrum-cycles.com/63.htm
> >
> > How to use a Silca frame pump.
> > Trying to teach people how to use a Silca frame pump sounds pretty silly,
> but there are good reasons. Let's walk through the logic.
> > * A frame pump is intended to get you home after a flat tire and to beat
> off dogs, not to pump up your tires day after day. A floor pump is designed
> for that purpose.
> > * Once you have fixed your flat tire, getting back on the road quickly is
> paramount, dynamiting your tire up to eight or nine atmospheres is not as
> critical as some would make it out to be.
> > * Silca frame pumps used properly will enable you to get your repaired
> tire up to riding pressure (6-8 bar.) faster than any other frame pump.
> Because of the larger shaft diameter, Silca pumps give more pressure per
> pump than the others.
> > * Of all the full length frame pumps, the Silca is the lightest. (the
> collapsible frame pumps are really cool but they are only useful as devices
> for forcing you to take a long rest during your rides.)
> >
> > Silca pumps come with four different types of heads. They all work the
> same, but the sealing grommets are only adjustable on some of them. The
> sealing grommet is the rubber donut which the tire valve goes through in the
> pump head. At this time, the most common head is a dual finger type made by
> Silca shaped somewhat like the old Campy steel heads. Although the fingers
> tend to break pretty easily, the head actually works quite well. This type
> of head uses a slotted screw at the back end of the head to adjust the seal
> grommet. The older Silca made heads did not have adjustable grommets. The
> Campy steel heads were adjusted by tightening the screw-on grommet retaining
> cover. I say "were" because Campy has not marketed their steel heads for
> years and the supply has dried up. If you have one or can get one, DO IT!
> and sell it to me. They were the best.
> >
> > There are a few tricks which one must use while pumping tires with Silca
> pumps. The most important thing to understand is that presta valves can be
> bent or broken quite easily and one must take steps to avoid doing so. Get
> into the habit of pumping your tires up by only holding the pump, NOT by
> holding the wheel or tire. The easiest way to do this is to pump up the tire
> with the wheel off the bike. Work the pump head onto the valve stem by
> moving the pump shaft back and forth while pressing the head onto the valve.
> At all times, the head must be aligned with the valve. If there is any
> pressure still in the tire, you must prevent the pump handle from being
> forced out of the end of the pump by the tire pressure. To do so, hold the
> handle and pump shaft tightly together in one hand and, make sure that the
> head is perfectly aligned with the valve as you press the head onto the
> valve. Once the head is well seated on the valve, grasp the head and pump
> end by wrapping your index finger around the end of the head and holding the
> shaft tightly with the rest of your hand. Lift the wheel off the ground with
> the pump, keeping the head and valve at 12:00 o'clock. Always keep the head
> and valve aligned with each other so that the valve has no bending pressure
> on it.
> >
> > Start pumping up your tire. Be sure to not pull the handle too far back.
> You can pull it right out of the shaft if you try. Once the tire pressure
> begins to climb, you will find it more difficult to pump. To get that last
> atmosphere or so in, you will want to use leverage to your advantage. For
> the easy part of the pumping, most people will have had the pump shaft
> running from side to side around waist level. When the pumping gets more
> difficult, you will want to end each stroke with the pump shaft almost
> perpendicular from your waist with the head end away from your belly. That
> way, you can pull the head end of the pump straight in while holding the
> handle end in at your belly. Thus, while the pumping is the most difficult,
> you will have the most leverage. This may sound awkward, but once you get
> the rhythm, it is very efficient and quick. With a bit of practice, you will
> be able to easily reach 7 atmospheres (about 100 lbs.) quite quickly.
> >
> > Once you have pumped up your tire, the last trick is removing the pump
> without harming either the pump or tire valve. Place the wheel back on the
> ground with the valve still at12:00 o'clock. Hold the pump handle in one
> hand and strike straight down on the pump shaft with you fist as close to
> the head as possible. It should pop right off.
> >
> > Things to remember:
> > * A frame pump is to get you home, not for day to day use.
> > * Always keep the head aligned with the tire valve.
> > * Don't pull the pump handle out of the shaft.
> > * Never apply any lateral or torsional force to the tire valve.
> > * Pop the head off when you are done, don't wiggle it off.
> > * Send me all your extra Campy steel heads, prepaid shipping.
> >
> >
> > Pete Geurds
> > Douglassville, PA