[CR]Chain kink

(Example: Production Builders)

In-Reply-To: <MONKEYFOODdMfuG1yui000049f4@monkeyfood.nt.phred.org>
References:
From: "Dennis Young" <mail@woodworkingboy.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 08:51:41 +0900
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
cc: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [CR]Chain kink

My practice with new chainsaw chains is to soak them in a bath of light oil before installing. I read about it somewhere. If I didn't mind the additional time that would be required to wipe down a

bike chain, I'd consider doing it to that too. A chainsaw chain tight link will soon loosen up running at 12000 rpms, but a bike chain might require considerable mileage to work smooth. Then there is the additional cost of the liquid refreshment along the way. Jerry's idea is probably better.

Dennis Young Hotaka, Japan
>
> The only trouble I'vd ever had with a new chain, presuming the the
> chainring and freewheel are not excessively worn, is with a tight
> link. On a modern chain, check that the master link is properly
> installed and that the chain bends properly there. If that's OK,
> work your way arround the chain bending the chain between each pair
> of links enough to insure that the links move freely. If you find
> a tight link, loosen it with a chain tool. It usually takes only a
> tiny movement of the pin to loosen up a tight link.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, TX
>
>
>
> ryan hildebrand <greengate@gmail.com> wrote:
> This is my first post here. I initially joined the list at the
> suggestion of another member for bike lore and FS listings. Very glad
> that I did so.
>
> About 3 months ago, I installed a new chain (SRAM PC58) on my 1 year
> off-topic Ciocc Mockba 80 with on-topic SR crank and chainrings
> (53/43) and Regina 13/21 6-sp FW. Since then I have been averaging
> about 2 skips per 12 miles a day, always under moderate-to-heavy load.
> If anything, it's getting worse. The equipment was previously mounted
> on a Paramount with no problems.
>
> I just measured the old chain and it was not stretched. The teeth on
> the FW are very strong. I've measured them and am (nearly) satisfied
> that the FW isn't the problem, which leaves the new chain. The tension
> is good. I've tried to identify a stiff link, but just don't see it.
> When I tried flipping the chain it was so bad that I had to flip it
> back five minutes later.
>
> Is there a "breaking in the chain" ritual you can suggest? Is it
> possible the chain is just bad? Am I overlooking something else?
>
> I'm fairly new to this and am hardly a mechanic, so please forgive me
> if I'm asking naïve questions. I read the archives heavily before
> writing. My local bike shops haven't been able to help.
>
>
> Ryan Hildebrand
> Costa Mesa, Calif.
> ___