Haven't seen the pics so I may be off base.................
If you have access to a lathe you might make (or have made) a tapered drift. Something that just barely starts onto the opening at the small end and tapers up to the desired inside diameter. Press or carefully drive this in, perhaps with a little grease.
A small amount of very gentle "off contact" blacksmithing may then be needed if the mouth isn't yet round. use the drift as your anvil and tap lightly where the cup doesn't touch. Done correctly you'll hear a slightly dull sound, turning to a sharper ringing sound when the cup comes into contact with the anvil. Off contact work should shrink the effected area, on contact will expand it.
Gene
On Nov 15, 2006, at 4:13 AM, Norris Lockley wrote:
> Sorry to hear of the bad news, Amir..it's quite a saga this Selbach of
> yours. It would have been quicker and easier if I had let you have
> mine!
>
> I think that Neil is very correct in his diagnosis of the problem and
> of
> one way of removing the dent, and I would suggest that there are
> several
> methods of easing the dent back into shape.
>
> Not having seen a photo of the damage I don't know how badly misformed
> the bottom headlug race-housing now is. If the damage is slight it
> should be possible to remove it by inserting a loose bearing race and
> exerting some downwards and inwards pressure on it using some form of a
> press such as a wide pair of vice jaws..or by adapting a head-race
> alignment tool.
> This method would use the contour of the loose race to recontour the
> race-housing of the lug.
>
> If the damage is more acute them I suggest that a little light-handed
> blacksmithing might be needed. I would probably make up a simple
> chasing
> tool, resembling a small cold chisel, probably using a piece of
> hardwood, or brass, or mild steel. The business end of the tool which
> might be about 1" or so wide would be filed to the radius of the
> head-race housing..and to the internal concave curve of the housing.
>
> Judicious use of a hammer to tap the tool into the damaged area,
> approaching gradually from the side rather than head-on would probably
> do the trick.
>
> An ideal tool would be a silversmith's bossing mallet, the narrower end
> of which could be filed into the appropriate radius and used directly
> on
> to the frame. The mallets are made usually from boxwood, occasionally
> lignum vitae, and would be both hard enough and gentle enough at the
> same time..do you get my drift?.. to tap out the bent-in steel without
> damaging the frame or stretching the metal. Similarly a silversmith's
> raising hammer would work well, but would need more care. You must a
> few
> silversmiths out in your neck of the woods, Amir
>
> Hope those suggestions might be of some use
>
> Norris Lockley...Settle UK
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
Gene Powell
Rad Finishes
Portland, OR
USA