I have taken out lots of them and always use a home made offset drift punch. I read the howtoo out of an old Schwinn repair book. I can up load a picture if anybody needs it. Steven Willis scotch plains nj The Bike Stand. http://www.thebikestand.com
>From: Mark Bulgier <Mark@bulgier.net>
>Date: 2007/01/27 Sat PM 06:13:35 CST
>To: Amir Avitzur <avitzur@013.net>,
Classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
>Subject: RE: [CR]Hub Race Removal
>Amir Avitzur wrote:
>>
>> Someone recommended cutting down an allen wrench to make a cheap
>> Hub Race Removal Tool. Tried it today. [snipped]
>>
>> Placed the Hub on a wooden park bench and took a few swings on the
>> "tail" end of the wrench. But persistent swings didn't even
>> budge the Campy Hub races.
>
>A while back I told of how to make a 4-prong "rocketship" type hub cup
>punch out of steel tubing - well here is my finished tool:
>http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/tools/HubCupPunch.JPG
>and a picture of it inserted in a front hub, ready for whacking:
>http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/tools/HubCupPunchInserted.JPG
>
>Compared to a single-pointed drift or sharpened allen wrench, this
>4-prong tool drives the cup straight out. No cocking it first one way,
>then the other, as hitting it on one side at a time would do. I think
>this very much reduces the force needed - the hammer blows were quite
>reasonable, without even heating up the hub first - no sweat! (Though
>moderate heating of the hub first is probably still a good idea)
>
>I made the shaft 3/8" so it would fit in front hubs. But the rear hub,
>being a bit bigger, allows the tool to flop around a bit. So to keep
>the tool centered I added a bolt down the middle, like so:
>http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/tools/HubCupPunch_improved.JPG
>
>The bolt does two things:
>
>(1) The shaft (thread) of the bolt is bigger than the hole down the
>middle of the tool, so by cramming the bolt in, the 4 prongs are spread
>a bit wider. This is good because the prongs have to spring inward on
>insertion to get behind the cup, and the distance they can spring back
>out is limited, so without the bolt they didn't have much punch/cup
>contact area. You can see the amount of punch that can bear on the back
>of the cup in this picture:
>http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/tools/HubCupPunch_improved_2.JPG
>
>(2) The head of the bolt is just the size to fit inside the hole in the
>cup, so it holds the punch exactly centered on the cup, check it out:
>http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/tools/HubCupPunch_with_race.JPG
>
>This tool is probably not worth making just to get one hub cup out. If
>that's all you need, just use the sharpened allen wrench method, and
>heat the hub up first to make the hammering easier. But if you think
>you might do this operation a few times in your life, or you just like
>using the RIGHT tool, this tool is a joy to use in comparison. Check
>the archives for the full instructions on how to make it. If you want a
>6x1M bolt to spread the prongs like mine, start with 3/8" x .083" or
>.095" wall tubing, preferably 4130 Cr-Mo. I got mine from Aircraft
>Spruce, one foot of .083" cost all of $2.75. and will make at least two
>of these tools.
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130tubing_un1.php
>
>Mark Bulgier
>Seattle WA USA
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
Stevn Willis
The Bike Stand
1778 East 2nd Street
Scotch Plains NJ 07076
thebikestand.com
908-322-330