Dmitry Yaitskov wrote:
I recently bought a 1947 Hetchins "Competition II" (complete bike). While the frame appears to be in excellent condition (according to the seller, it was repainted some 20 years ago, possibly at the Hetchins shop), the rear wheel needs rebuilding. It is a Constrictor aluminium 26 1/4" rim laced to a Sturmey Archer 4-speed hub, with 2 sprockets switched by a Cyclo two-speed converter. The problem is that the rim has been laced wrong, with spokes from the "left-side" holes going to the hub's right flange, and vice-versa. In other words, it must be rebuilt (unless there is some deep meaning to that lacing, which I doubt but please tell me if I'm wrong). (The front wheel seems fine, BTW.) Also, while the rear wheel's OLD is 110mm, the rear dropouts' spacing strangely is about 106mm, so I'd like to have it properly re-spaced and dropouts aligned.
I would very much like this bike to become a real rider, even at the expense of some period-correctness... the thing is, I'm unsure about how well the current setup (i.e. the 4-speed SA hub with a 2-speed Cyclo converter) works in practice, and am thinking that perhaps it might be a better idea to change it to something different, especially as long as I'm going to rebuild the wheel and re-space the rear dropouts anyway (e.g. I might re-space it to 115mm). So, my questions to the group are, first, if anybody has experience with Cyclo converters, how well do they really work, and second, ideas on alternative (better) drivetrain setups (hubs/derailleurs/shifters) that would be not too out of place on that bike would be very much appreciated. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Well, I might be jealous! Sounds like a wonderful period piece. I can't imagine doing anything other than possibly relacing the rear wheel, and that only if it's popping spokes. Yes, the hybrid derailleur + internal gives you the worst of each technology, but it was the best option available for a while, and rather a high-end investment. As far as the spoking is concerned, I can't visualize the constrictor rim, so I don't know how much it wants to aim the spoke nipple. But, my memory is that most of the builds of that era were 4-cross, so the spokes are essentially perpendicular to the radius from spoke hole in the flange to axle center. These seem to resist being re-laced in the opposite direction, whether steel or aluminum. I have been known to install tiny brass washers under the spoke bend to thicken the flange if I relace with modern spokes that are spaced for thicker modern flanges.
So, it's yours to do with as you please, but if you do "upgrade" or "modernize", please keep the old kit for the next owner.
harvey sachs mcLean va usa (who uses a Sachs 3x7 hybrid drive on an off-topic but useful Bike Friday folder).