Re: [CR] Fender Eyelet Screws

(Example: History:Ted Ernst)

In-Reply-To: <mailman.7659.1234449894.55131.classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References:
From: "Jon Spangler" <hudsonspangler@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 12:48:29 -0800
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR] Fender Eyelet Screws


Matthew,

I'm with Jerry on this one, although my choice of machine screw/bolt head varies from Philips to hex to Allen, depending on what length(s) I need and what is available at Pagano's, my local hardware store.

The 5MM x .8 metric stainless bolts (or screws), with nylock nuts outside if necessary for clearance, work very well in most threaded dropouts. I use split lockwashers in addition to the nylock nuts, to make sure that my racks (and panniers) do not rattle loose. Phil Wood grease keeps everything from rusting more quickly in our marine environment (on San Francisco Bay). I have quite a collection of these screws, nuts, and washers, and use them all the time. Make sure that there are 1-2 threads sticking out of the nut's nylon inserts to make certain they do not loosen up.

All the stainless hardware should be easily available at your local hardware store. If not, try a marine supply store (chandlery) like West Marine, or Grainger's, etc. Local bike shops may or may not have the stainless hardware, but can order it for you in some cases.

Regards,

Jon Spangler who knows the stainless metric hardware at Pagano's better than most in Alameda, CA USA

On Feb 12, 2009, at 6:44 AM, <classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org> <classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org> wrote:
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 06:44:52 -0800
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [CR] Fender Eyelets: What threading?
> To: devotion finesse <devotion_finesse@hotmail.com>, CR discussion
> list <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>, Ken Sanford
> <kanford@verizon.net>
> Message-ID: <454806.73386.qm@web82206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I use stainless steel socket head metric cap screws, I believe 5
> mm. They
> are sold in better hardware stores, the natiional bicycle suppliers
> to LBS'
> s and some shops, including Harris I believe. These will fit most
> threaded
> eyelet. If the threading doesn't match, I use one size smaller (4
> mm I be
> leive) and a nylock nut inside the DO. Occasionally the FW
> clearance is so
> close the nylock nut will interfere with the small FW cog or the
> chain. U
> sually one can solve this by using a button head screw inside the
> DO with t
> he Nylock washer on the outside. Often you need a flat washer
> between the
> cap screw and the stay. Stainless is best. One wants to select
> the cap sc
> rew length so the end is near flush with the inside of DO, inless
> one must
> use the nut inside the DO. I try to keep a stock of 4, 5, and 6 mm
> cap scr
> ews in assorted lengths, along with matching flat washers, lock
> washers and
> nylock nut, as they are quite handy for attaching most any sort of
> bicycle accessory. I rarely use the original screws, even if the
> fit, as
> they are seldom stainless and seldom take an Allen wrench.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>

Jon Spangler
Writer/Editor
Linda Hudson Writing
510-864-0370/FAX 864-2144
MOBILE 510-846-5356
hudsonspangler@earthlink.net