Peter,
I frequently suggest nail polish for touch ups. Tt's lacquer and dries fast, and then you can do like you say; after putting some clear over the color, you can match the gloss.
BTW, any paint can be made to simulate any degree of gloss or lack of it. I don't know why some of these people complain about the gloss of Imron, for example. It can be dulled to whatever degree one wants using any number of simple methods.
Brian Baylis
La Mesa, CA
Ken, all, Brian is right about touch up work, difficult to do even if you have the right formula.
Just a thought, I often recommend using nail polish for some colors. Its flows well and is somewhat self leveling if the chipped area is facing up. You can buy it in small bottles etc. If it's too glossy compared to the patina'd finish you could knock it down with 2000 grit wet or dry paper or a light compound.
I wonder if Brian thinks there's any merit to this, I know they make nail polish in almost every shade/color imaginable....(I see my daughter's friends at school..)
I usually mention to my customer's, if they feel a little funny about buying nail polish, bring the forks into the store, to you know, match up the color,,, and you won't feel insecure at all,,,,manliness intact.
peter weigle
lyme ct.
Ken,
Not to speak for Peter or any other painters; but most of us have paint formulas that are very close to the original colors for early Masis and Cinellis, amongst others. They look reasonably correct in color and grain structure of the metallic flakes. But when used as a touch up for an original paint job, since the is a WIDE range of possible shades due to age or other factors that prevent it from being an undetectable match for the original paint. And if the touch up is done with a brush, there there's very little chance of making the chip or whatever disappear. The spot is obvious. If attempting to do an air brush touch-up the situation isn't a whole lot different; and then there's the blending of the areas to deal with. I say it's best to take part of the frame to an automotive paint store and try to get close that way. There are too many variations in color to go by a formula for a repaint when seeking a touch-up. Doing touch up of colors that are layered (flamboyant, pearl, or candy apple colors) complicate the process in a huge way.
One of the difficulties in matching colors is that paints are made differently in Europe than in the States. Doing touch-ups that a professional with high standards is happy with is a real pain in the ass. Also very time consuming also. Best to do the touch up yourself in my opinion.
Brian Baylis La Mesa, CA I've washed my hands of touch-ups since there is only one of me, and it becomes a serious waste of time under those circumstances.
Peter,
Based on your success with the silver, I'd like to ask you a related
question. I have a 1980 Masi painted in the light blue metallic color.
This color can be seen on the CR Masi USA page,
http://www.classicrendezvous.com/
The question is, have you ever matched this color, and if so, what was the match?
> Mark,
> I don't bill myself as the end all restoration expert, but I've used the
> Alpha color code AR727 for Cinelli's. I don't know if this is the same
> code
> as Phil was refering to? This color would probably be pretty close to the
> Masi...
>
> But when I do Masi silver I use a Fiat/Lancia color code 678, Dupont # is
> 44517- (other paint brands will use their own #.)
> The color match was pretty spot on to the Masi's I tested it on, and then
> repainted.
>
> Other painter's may have their own special matching #s, maybe they'll
> chime
> in.
>
> Hope this helps,
> peter weigle
> lyme, ct.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
--
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA