Holiday Greetings,
I ask these questions four!
1. Presta and Shrader: I have also had the long running trouble with needing two frame pumps and two heads for my old floor pumps for different wheels/tubes. I know of the aluminum sleeves for converting rims drilled for Shrader rims to use for Presta tubes. The problem is is you have the adapters depending on how many wheels you have you can spend quite a bit on the adapters. the use of a home made is consideably mor economical and easier to do on a Saturday night before a Sunday ride when you have the Presta tubes and need a spare Shrader. The use of a small piece of "foam" tape or a snippet of old tube semms to do in a pinch. The metal sleeve is just more elegant. The mention of Bob Freitas of the use of drilling of another hole is not for me. I am not interested in drilling new holes in vintage rims even though it seems very practical. It would appear to be cosmetically undesirable. We all have ideas That is why I am here; to steal from the best. Thank you for your generosity.
2. The end of the above leads me to my other topics. Moving up on the rim, so to speak. I have looked in vain for a solution to modern brakes with old frames and using 700c on frames designed for 27." I like the Tektro R556. It has great reach. that being said it has only been available to me in a length for modern frames with recessed bolt mounts. I would love to find replacement bolts that would be a direct conversion as I am loath to drill out my fork crown. Do any of you know of such a bolt? I have experimented with 7mm bolts of appropriate length for the fork crown as the original fork crown bolt can be used in a conventional nutted rear brake bridge. I am not totally satisfied by my fix. I have used taken 7mm bolt that I then reduced and rethreaded for 6mm on the shaft length for the conventional crown. Because of the close proximity bolt head fit; I have then ground down the bolt hex head to a thinness like a mafact center-pull brake arm mounting bolt. It fits, more or less. the problem is it is not pretty and the exposes head surface is then bare metal. I have a spot chroming kit that I have consdered using to protect the head. I have not yet tried a 6mm bolt with a sleeve for the caliper portion of the bolt that would normally be 7mm diameter. That may be another alternative, except it will not solve the bare metal head problem. A third bolt method may be to use an allen head bolt. All of the allen head bolts in metric that have been available to me are too thick to grind down and retain the six sided broached wrench hole. Are there any other solutions from the rest of you?
3. Lastly my third question. I am looking for a solution to use 700c wheels on frames with cantilever braze-ons for 650B and/or 26" wheels. Now that there are wide 700c wheels I would like to dispense with smaller wheels on at least on of my bikes. I have seen one solution. It is beyond my limits for cost effective conversion. I have seen Paul Components BMX V-brakes used to make this conversion. The cost would be approximately $250.00 USD. In California there would be the sales tax of 8.75% above that. In addition if not available locally there would be a fee for shipping. the total would then top $280 USD. That is a tidy sum Mr. Bigglesworth. this would be magnified due to the light use the bike would receive even after the conversion.
4. The fourth and final question. Frame rust. I recently acquired a frame that when I removed the bottom bracket and the accompanying plastic bearing sleeve gushed water. Suprisingly the bearings and bearing surfaces were in good condition and still nicley greasy. The water was apparently trapped in the chainstays. I would apprececiate advice on preventing interior rust damage. the tubes seem to be sound at this point. As Neil Young may have titled an album; "Rust Never Sleeps." I want to halt any further damage.
Thank you one and all for your help and advice. john strizek sacramento, california USA