Re: [CR] puller to chaser; stronglight and others

(Example: Framebuilders:Richard Moon)

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 23:33:08 -0800
From: "john strizek" <lyonstrings@yahoo.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10074.1263598831.565.classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR] puller to chaser; stronglight and others


I have made chasers from pullers in the manner of using a cutting wheel to cut slots at approximately 90degress from the thread direction. I have a VAR tap for stronglight that I got from Tom Hayes for the 23.35. For 22mm standard threaded pullers and 23mm TA crnakarms I used an extra Park CCP-1 (the CCP-1 is discontinued but often found on Ebay) that has both pullers on it. The method for cleaning the threads is the same as a readymade chaser I purchased some time ago, that is the inspiration for my modifying pullers for cleaning crank arm pulling threads.

Today I used the Sheldon Brown method for a recalcitrant adjustable cup removal. Some years ago I figured out this method independently. I was very happy to see I was doing the right thing by seeing that Sheldon had also used the same method. It is cheap and has about a 90% or better success rate, for fixed cups and should be easy for an adjustable cup removal. But not so today. The cup was so "jammed"  that that I twisted off a grade 8 1/2 inch bolt. Metric speak would be about 13mm. I was not at home but volunteering at the local bike coop and did not have a selection of sockets in 1/2" drive. I went to the hardware store to get a 5/8" bolt, but the only other SAE socket I had was a 13/16" automotive sparkplug socket. Therefore the only larger bolt available to me was 9/16". That did the trick but I could see thread stretch on the bolt afterward. I am still amazed at the way some folks bollix up a simple job of threading a male part into a female part when it is so intuitive! C'est la vie.

john strizek still piddling with my "new"/ old Rando Cycle in Sacramento, California USA