Well, I'd start by realizing that building the wheel the first time is a bit different from minor truing down the road. To build a zero-dish wheel, I'd simply reset the axle spacers so the flanges are equidistant from the arms of the truing jig. When done, space it back the way it started out. I don't think I'm missing anything here, but could be wrong.
Minor truing can be done against one tell-tale with a conventional truing stand, no?
For real fun, think about building a wheel on a Cinelli BiValent hub. For that, you have to take the apparat off the fork ends and mount the pieces on the truing jig. Of course, my (Park) truing jig doesn't have the same thickness as the dropouts, but that's a minor detail in the grand scheme of working with non-standard designs.
If I ever get a bike with its wheel bearings in the drop-outs, I think I'll true that on the bike. In situ, as it were. Your mileage may vary.
harvey sachs mcLean va.
Jerry Moos wrote: So how does one center and true a zero-dish rear wheel? Conventional truing stands will center the rim on the hub axle, which will result in the rim being centered between the rear DO's, but on this frame one wants the rim centered between the rear stays. Can a Park Pro stand be adjusted enough to compensate for a frame set up like this?