Re: [CR] Headbadge basics

(Example: Events:Eroica)

From: "Andrew R Stewart" <onetenth@earthlink.net>
To: "Thomas Adams" <thomasthomasa@yahoo.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <577128.82443.qm@web35604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
In-Reply-To: <577128.82443.qm@web35604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 17:12:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [CR] Headbadge basics


Tom- I am not familiar with the Willis headbadge but I can speak to making a badge in general. If the material is hard (metal, plastic) then a jeweler's saw is a real handy tool. You want to pick a blade with a tooth pitch that allows at least two teeth to be on the material at all times if possible. Small Swiss pattern files are also helpful for the tight corners.

When I cut out my "S" from stainless steel tube I first tried to do about what you suggested, drill close to the edge and file to match. The upper half of the "S" took three hours and wasn't quite done. I got a jeweler's saw and the bottom half took 45 minute, including finishing the top. I probably went through 10 blades (inexperience and a really hard material), there's a reason that the blades are sold in one gross packages.

I have cut from tubing and flat plate. The plate gets curved by pressing it into a piece of tubing, cut in half lengthwise, with another piece of tubing sandwiching the badge. All the plate I've used has been fairly thin, about bike frame wall thickness, and the tubing was .058" IIRC, I would not want to have to press that stuff into a curve. For really thin stock that will distort under the cutting or filing pressure you could sandwich the thin stock between a couple pieces of wood, although this greatly increases the amount of stock you have to file away.

Small files are the likely way you'll do most of the fine shaping. Grinding and sanding are best for the initial rough work. You can make a couple of pieces of wood to hold the piece while you're working on it. You'll be turning it around and trying to get the best angle a lot.

I've never engraved or embossed the surface but could see that. Perhaps done before the other shaping.

At the recent NAHBS there was a head badge making company displaying. They might be worth talking with.

Good luck and consider documenting the process and showing us your work.


----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas Adams
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 4:44 PM
Subject: [CR] Headbadge basics


Dear List:

I'm thinking about getting in over my head again, to try to make a headbadge for the Willis frame. What materials will I need? Brass, aluminum, or what? How thick of a stock do I use? How thick can I use? Thicker stock would perhaps be more durable, and allow for roudning the edges, but would be harder to work. Any particular rules for cutting it? My plan, for any piece I can't reach with tin snips, is to drill a series of holes near the interior line, snip the remainders and then polish flat with a file. Color, if brass, will probably be bare polished. If aluminum, then black.

Suggestions for rounding the badge? How large should the item be? Screws or rivets? If screws, what size and what size hole to drill in the headtube? And what length screw?

Instrument laquer, or just a good coat of wax? What says the group?

Tom Adams, Manhattan, KS

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Andrew R Stewart
Rochester, NY