Re: [CR] chain (lube) wars, redux

(Example: Framebuilders:Cecil Behringer)

From: "David Snyder" <dddd@pacbell.net>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <4BA63CDB.4080905@verizon.net> <28dcb8781003210858y23fe10a6p84e4ddf5faea3d4d@mail.gmail.com> <75d04b481003210901o2d90e311x84e18a5da951d102@mail.gmail.com>
In-Reply-To: <75d04b481003210901o2d90e311x84e18a5da951d102@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 18:59:57 -0700
Subject: Re: [CR] chain (lube) wars, redux


As this hasn't been yet flagged as off-topic, I will first mention that older chains require more substantial lubrication, owing, I believe, to differences in bushings, clearances, materials and side-plate dimensions which cause more rubbing interference as the chain is cross-chained. Modern chains remain quiet and very long-lasting with very scant lubrication, and since they usually improve shifting, are lighter and are more generally available, I use modern chains almost exclusively, and even prefer 9-speed width for easiest shifting on Suntour and Shimano freewheels, particularly Ultra-6 freewheels.

The best lubricant for me (over the last almost 15 years) has been one that:

1) can be applied as a continuous stream, i.e. in 20 seconds or less. The bottle and spout must be of suitable configuration to allow this without making a mess (think White-Lightning bottle with short WD40-type straw plugged into the top).

2) is diluted enough so that a quick wipe-down with a rag (in 20 seconds, maybe 40) leaves no excess of lubricant on the chain to fly off or attract excess dirt.

3) is concentrated enough (seasonally adjusted as needed) to last a couple of hundred miles, dependent on conditions and what kind of chain it is.

4) ...and as per above 3 notes, never requires the chain to be cleaned beyond this apply-and-wipe method. Ever.

I've mixed various oils and/or bike-specific lubricants with low-odor mineral spirits and use a 1-foot square of terry cloth to effect the above process, which takes an absolute minimum of time and expense. I apply to the top of the sideplates as the cranks are turned backward, my knuckles against the spokes for a steady aim. The rag lasts a few months (No, I don't wash it). This method also usually restores old, crusted chains within a few applications to a clean, almost dry-looking equillibrium, and despite a gritty sound immediately after each application, gives excellent wear life nonetheless.

I tried mixing grease with alcohol for lubing chains when I was 16 (that didn't work).

I don't know which method is actually best for the environment, but I never clean a chain beyond performing the routine lube-wipe, and my chains always look relatively clean. I periodically clean sprockets with a slim metal ruler and/or screwdriver tip as the parts are rotated (the pullies always have the most rapid buildup of the waxy residue). A rag pulled back and forth between the cogs as the freewheel ratchets can give a cleaner appearance, but not necessary.

David Snyder
Auburn, CA usa


----- Original Message -----
From: Kurt Sperry
Subject: Re: [CR] chain (lube) wars, redux


10W-40 Havoline. Period correct, or reasonably so. This topic seems destined to go off-topic in any case.

Harvey Sachs wrote:
>
>> What are vintagistas having good success with for the real riders, not
>> the
>> wall queens, but ones that are ridden mostly when it's well above
>> freezing?
>> Ease of use and relatively clean chain are important. If I wanted calf
>> chain tatoos, I'd get a real one. :-)