All- A good shop will have a few different lock ring tools. Because the lock rings can vary in outer diameter AND NUMBER OF NOTCHES. Specifically some lock rings have only three notches! If there's an even number then the Var tool is very nice, 4 or 6 notches being the most common. Often first tool I reach for is the Hozan tool (early versions were called "Rock Ring" tools, stamped into the tool's handle). It's a single hook with, maybe, a 120* curve for the ring to seat on. It also has a second end with a tighter radius in the seating curve that fits smaller lock rings (track cog's, head set's). Perhaps the best steel and machining grade of the "universal" tools. It is easy to determine whether the Hozan will fit securely before applying effort.
Some BB's take tools with rounded notches and a square hook can work, some times. Park makes a few fully inclosing tools with various round shaped hooks.
It needs to be said that any tool requires careful placement and focus while using. Slippage and the resulting scratching of the BB shell is easy if not careful. The Var can scratch even if it doesn't slip. It also has a relief cut into it's hooks (which are replaceable) to help avoid the scratching potential. Still operator skill over comes tool design. One drawback to the Var is that it compresses the ring, making it more likely that the cup will turn with the ring. Not a problem when removing the BB but a pain when setting the bearing adjustment.
In general I find working the cup to be the greater challenge as both the tool fit (peg holes, notches or wrench flats) will be hidden to a degree by the left arm (when doing only an adjustment) as well as the range of tool fits is greater then the lock ring's. Often I find the need to "pre set" the cup and lock ring relationship so that when the ring is secured the cup has rotated to the perfect point for bearing adjustment. A trial and error process. Don't forget to attach the right arm before the final bearing adjustment and feel the adjustment in a few rotational points at the arm's end. Both magnifying the slop and checking for any "tight in one spot and still loose in another" results. (And set the adjustment so the tight spot is not too tight). I work from being too loose to "just right", just as I do other bearing adjustments. (It's hard to feel slightly too tight as opposed to too loose).
> The VAR lockring pliers are brilliant making undoing the tightest
> lockrings a breeze...
>
>
> rgds
>
>
> Hilary
>
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>
>
> M-gineering wrote:
>> Hugh Thornton wrote:
>>> I am just wondering if anybody knows of a near-universal bottom bracket
>>> lockring wrench that will work on a typical notched lockring. I have a
>>> Campagnolo wrench which works great on Campagnolo and similarly sized
>>> lockrings, but it is very size-specific. I have a Mavic bottom bracket
>>> that I want to unscrew and the diameter is tooo large for the Campy
>>> wrench and the typical stamped wrench with one prong is not up to the
>>> job.
>>> Does anybody know of a tool that is effective in these circumstances
>>> that won't wreck the slots? I apologize if this is a repeat question -
>>> I did have a look in the archives but didn't come up with anything.
>>> Thanks
>>> Hugh Thornton
>>> Cheshire, England
>>
>> The VAR lockring pliers are worth a look
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
Andrew R Stewart
Rochester, NY