"pour inside the top tube maybe 10 table spoons of Linseed oil "
Dale et al,
Does it matter whether you use raw or boiled linseed oil? I have two wood/brass levels that I protect with linseed oil but I have yet to find the raw stuff that was recommended.
-----Original Message----- From: OROBOYZ@aol.com <OROBOYZ@aol.com> To: peterg@ixpres.com <peterg@ixpres.com>; classicrendezvous@bikelist.org <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 12:31 PM Subject: [CR]Junk inside top tube..Was: Shavings, etc.
>This happens a lot Peter!
>
>It is most often bits of brazing material that end up marooned in there
after
>brazing up...
>
>It IS surprising that there is not a vent hole anywhere.. not inside head
>tube? Have you removed the headset to check there?
>
>When brazing, most especially with brass, the heat inside builds up so much
>that a vent hole allows steam/gas to escape there at the vent rather than
in
>the joint you are brazing ("pin hole.")
>
>Anyway, if there is absolutely no access to the interior of the top tube, I
>think the head tube is the best place for hole placement.. That is because
it
>is a thick tube relatively speaking and can suffer more abuse (!)
>
>If you can use a long sharp center punch, you may be able to drill a small
>hole at the angle required. You may need a bit extender...
>
>Then, if and when you get penetration (no guffaws from the peanut gallery,
>please) pour inside the top tube maybe 10 table spoons of Linseed oil from
>your friendly local art supply shop. (LASS) Then turn and twist the frame
>around to distribute the oil uniformly around inside the tube, drain it out
>again and let it sit for a week or two undisturbed.
>
>What will happen is that the Linseed oil will "set up" trapping the
particles
>and coating the inside of the tube against future rust and corrosion.
>
>Dale Brown