David, as you may know, I have a Web page about Lambert/Viscount
bikes http://sheldonbrown.com/
With your permission, I'd like to add this information to that page. I would, of course credit you and provide any sort of hyperlink you'd like. I'd do a bit of editing and convert it into HTML.
Hows about it?
All the best,
Sheldon
At 7:34 PM -0800 1/23/01, David Van Hook wrote:
>Ok, Jeff, here it is, as promised.
>
>How I Did It.
>
>Things youíll need:
>1. A sturdy workbench of some kind the bigger the
>better.
>2. Some old towels or similar thick cloth.
>3. A heavy hammer or malletÖI used a heavy ball
>peen hammer.
>4. A drill with drill bit large enough to drill
>an approximately 19mm hole thru thick wood blocks
>(2).
>5. Two thick wood blocks, at least 2.5 inches
>thickÖpine or oak, doesnít matter.
>6. A countersink punch or similar steel rod
>slightly larger on one end than the other but
>smooth and blunt on both ends.
>7. A smaller hammer. A small ball peen was fine
>for me.
>8. A vise of some kind. I used a wood vise but I
>donít think it matters.
>9. Another piece of sturdy scrap wood to use for
>protection of metal parts when you strike them
>with the hammer.
>10. Two replacement cartridge bearings (generic)
>UB-6003, 17mm inside diameter, 35mm outside
>diameter. $4.90 ea. from the Third Hand/ Loose
>Screws (www.thethirdhand.com).
>11. Double duty snap ring pliersÖitem #NH 158673
>from same company as above.
>12. Another pair of hands is helpful.
>13. Patience.
>Remove the snap rings from the both side of the
>spindle. I had to file the prongs of my snap
>ring pliers to fit the tiny holes in the rings.
>I also broke or bent the rings in the process.
>Secure the frame flat on the work bench top so
>that the BB is accessible to you, extended just
>over the edge of the table. I used the towels to
>support the frame to avoid damage or stress and
>so that it was a flat as I could get it. This is
>where an extra pair of hands come in handy. I
>did NOT clamp it down. It doesnít matter which
>side you start on.
>Put a piece of thick scrap wood over the end of
>the spindle and strike the wood sharply with the
>heavy hammer or mallet. Check your progress
>after each couple of blows to get a feel for
>whatís happening. The goal of this exercise is
>of course to drive the spindle out of the
>bearings, but you will discover that you will
>also remove the opposite bearing in the
>processÖwhich is good. Be strongÖ be firm...be
>patientÖprayer helps.
>Once you have the spindle with the opposite
>bearing out of the BB, turn the frame over and
>use either the countersink punch or something
>similar to knock the remaining bearing
>Out of theBB.
>You can then knock the spindle out of the still
>attached bearing by putting the bearing in a vise
>and striking the spindle end with the hammer
>(donít forget to use the wood blockÖalways use
>the wood block and never, never strike the
>spindle directly with the hammer).
>Clean out the BB and clean the spindleÖjust donít
>do anything to change the shape of the spindles
>where they fit into the bearings.
>Place a new bearing on a thick wood block in
>which you will have drilled a hole big enough to
>allow for passage of the spindle (about 19mm).
>Center the bearing over the hole. Place the
>spindle into the bearing and drive it it into the
>bearing, again using the wood block to protect
>the spindle end. Drive it in until the circlip
>groove is just visible outside the bearing.
>Then place the spindle with the attached bearing
>into the BB and gently tap it into place by
>placing the wooden block with the hole, over the
>spindle and driving it in until the bearing is
>flush with the face of the BB.
>Now turn the frame over and support the spindle
>and bearing you have already placed with that
>same wooden block and enough rags, towels, or
>whatever, so that it is flat and well supported
>on the bench.
>Place the other bearing on the spindle and, using
>a second wood block with a 19mm hole drilled in
>it, drive the bearing into place until flush with
>the face of the BB.
>This process will probably require several
>maneuvers befoer you have both bearings in
>position and the spindle properly centered with
>the circlip groove just showing on the outside of
>each bearing. ***Important: remember that the
>spindle is slightly longer on the crank side so
>be certain to install it that way the first time!
>
>You may find as I did that the spindle will not
>turn easily at first because the bearings are not
>perfectly parallel to each other in the BB. I
>used the countersink punch to GENTLY ìfine tuneî
>the position of the bearings until the spindle
>moved satisfactorily. Donít lose patience as it
>may take a bit of trial and error before you are
>satisfied. I donít think it has to be absolutely
>perfect because I believe that once the crank and
>pedals are installed and some pedaling motion can
>be firmly applied, that the alignment will tend
>to correct itself. At least thatís my theoryÖand
>Iím stickiní to it!
>I have not found suitable replacements for the
>snap rings on the spindles.
>Good luck!
>Regards,
>Dave Van Hook
>Hershey, PA
>
>
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