Maybe I'm missing something, but, looking at my 2000's, I don't see why you can't use a slightly longer bolt secured by a nut on the back side of the hole. As long as you use a fairly thin nut, there shouldn't be clearance problems. This might require holding the nut with another wrench while tightening the bolt, unless you epoxy the nut in place (or solder it).
Regards,
Jerry Moos
Stockwell, Brad wrote:
> Classic Folk:
>
> A recently acquired Zeus-2000 rear derailleur turns out to have stripped
> threads in the hole for the cable-binder bolt.
>
> I have half an idea about what I might try, but seeing as how there's such
> a satisfying surfeit of cycle science among this crowd I thought I should
> ask for advice before I turn into the notorious 'Doctor Butcher' on my own.
>
> The cable-binder arrangement is similar to the campy NR: the hole is
> threaded through a tab which extends from the trailing edge of the front
> parallelogram plate. It's threaded for a 5mm bolt. As one might expect,
> the steel bolt is A-OK and the aluminum hole took the damage. The threads
> were perhaps stripped via misalignment rather than over-tightening (?)
> because the threads are only gone over about 200 degrees out of the full
> 360. The 'land' around the hole is only 1 or 2 mm thick so I'm gonna assume
> that replacing the threads with a helicoil insert is out of the question.
>
> Since the hole still has threads 'on one side', it occurred to me that I
> might be able to simply epoxy a small shim to the stripped side of the hole,
> thus forcing the bolt to engage the remaining threads on the opposite side.
> Or I could epoxy some thicker shim material in the hole and attempt to
> re-tap it. Or I could look into finding a slightly larger non-metric screw
> and re-tap for that. There again it could have a future as a paperweight.
>
> Thanks for listening
>
> Brad (have 4 of 'em, but wanna use the broken one) Stockwell
> Rain deluged Palo Alto