So why are the old Titans a sort of flat grey, rather than the more-or-less silver colored brushed or polished finishes on modern titanium bikes? I must admit to seeing relative few titanium bikes "in the flesh" as I've lived in a rural area where really expensive frames are a bit rare since before titanium frames became widespread. Still, the photos of new Ti bikes look more silver and less grey than my Titan. If the Titan finish is titanium oxide, what prevents the new frames from oxidizing as well?
Regards,
Jerry Moos
Peter Grenader wrote:
> I cannot find the original question about removing stratches from Titanium
> which prompted the reply about the DA seat post, but....
>
> As an owner of two Ti bikes, I have become a sort of expert on the topic,
> though Joe Bell could give us more input on this (hi, Joe). Basically, to
> match the original finish seamlesslessly, you will need to know the process
> used by the manufacturer, of which there are many. If you use a combination
> which isn't like the one you are touching up you will see the difference and
> it will bite a little more every time you see it thereafter. The only fix
> to this is if you screw up, be prepared to refinish the entire piece (be it
> a frame, seatpost of fighter plane) to match your touch up.
>
> For the purpose of this text, I'm gonna assume we're talking about a frame.
> If it's bead blasted, you're up a creek as far as spot refinishing. If the
> stratch is so bad that you feel it must be replaced, it's time to call the
> manufacture, get more decals, strip the frame and take it to place that has
> a bead chamber. There are a few different types of beads used. Lightspeeds
> use a relatively large diameter, Moots uses a smaller one which gives a much
> richer finish.
>
> If it's a brushed frame, Like some Hollands, all Merlins, some Litespeeds -
> your task will be easiest. Usually, it's a series of degradating Scotch
> Bright grids. Start with the roughest, then go finer, then finer. Again,
> the combination will be determined by what the frame maker did in the first
> place. I have had excellent results with my Holland starting with Red, then
> Green, then White Scotch Bright. If you have to do the whole frame it
> shouldn't take more than an hour to do the whole thing. Litespeed does not
> use the white - you can tell because the finish isn't all that smooth.
> Merlin's process is listed on their website someplace.
>
> Make sure to GO AGAINST THE GRAIN OF ATHE METAL.
>
> If it's polished, like all Sandviks and most some Litespeeds, very careful
> use of a buffing wheel with polishing rouge should take care of it. If you
> use the wrong wheel though you'll be in trouble - it won't be seamless. I've
> done this before, but I've srewed it up more times than i've nailed it.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Up to my neck in 3.25 in Santa Monica,
>
> Peter Grenader