Re: [CR]Brooks Proofide

(Example: Production Builders)

Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 10:55:47 -0500
From: Jerry & Liz Moos <moos@penn.com>
To: "Stockwell, Brad" <BRAD.STOCKWELL@mpp.cpii.com>
CC: "'Sheldon Brown'" <CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com>, internet-bob@bikelist.org, TOURING <touring@phred.org>, "Tandem @ Hobbes" <tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR]Brooks Proofide
References: <9CE7CEBC1555D4118FCD006008279E684C7DE3@mppmail.mpp.cpii.com>


Well, I used this method on my first Brooks Pro, when I rode my first century, the 1974 NEOC, on my then nearly new 1973 Lejeune with Brooks saddle. It rained most of the first 50 miles, and the saddle got well broken in. I still use this saddle, however, I don't recommend this breakin method. I find that Proofhide does aid in breakin, though this does require much more time and miles than more drastic methods.

Regards,

Jerry Moos

Stockwell, Brad wrote:
> Leather Saddle Users:
> Speaking of Proofide: in 1997 I was confronted with breaking in a new
> Brooks Saddle after the frame on my 1977 team special broke.
>
> I eagerly bought a tin of Proofide thinking that it would speed the
> process, but it didn't. My personal experience is: Proofide is a wax which
> is designed to Proof the underside of the Hide from damage by moisture.
>
> In an interview for the Rivendell Reader, Lon Haldeman of RAAM fame
> recommended use of an oil which penetrates the leather and makes it more
> pliable in a hurry.
>
> But a pamphlet on leather saddles distributed by the Wheelsmith pointed
> out that the flaw in using oil to make the leather (more or less)
> permanently pliable is: not only does it reach the desired shape faster, but
> it also keeps on stretching past that point and goes slack faster. Then you
> tighten the bolt to get the tension back, then it sags some more, and you're
> in a vicious circle.
>
> The pamphlet makes a plausible argument that the best thing you can do is:
> get the new saddle good and soaking wet, then ride on the wet saddle just
> long enough that it molds to your body (maybe an hour?), then let it dry out
> and stiffen up in that desirable form.
>
> Back in '77, I did this accidentally when I got caught in the rain on a
> 40-miler.
>
> After the molding is done, one can then coat the underside with Proofide
> or some other wax to PROTECT IT FROM UNDESIRABLE FURTHER DEFORMATION.
>
> Just one Pamphlet's opinion.
>
> Brad Stockwell
> Palo Alto
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sheldon Brown [mailto:CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 11:47 AM
> To: internet-bob@bikelist.org; TOURING; Tandem @ Hobbes;
> classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Brooks Proofide is BACK!
>
> After several months of unavailabilty a shipload of Brooks
> Proofide
> saddle dressing has finally made it to our shores, despite
> unfavorable winds.
>
> Back in stock, US$7.95/tin.
>
> Sheldon "Soft And Pliable" Brown
> +-----------------------------------------+
> | The wind and waves are always on the |
> | side of the ablest navigators. |
> | --Edward Gibbon |
> +-----------------------------------------+
> Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
> Phone 617-244-9772, 617-244-1040, FAX 617-244-1041
> http://harriscyclery.com
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