Re: RE:Re: [CR]lurker question

(Example: Component Manufacturers:Avocet)

From: "Mike Rawlings" <serious@dplus.net>
To: "classic rendevous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <20010418203928.17347.qmail@web901.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RE:Re: [CR]lurker question
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 17:19:26 -0400


i called a campy tech rep. there is no spring to preload. they are to be installed like normal friction shifters. thanks to all who offered help. mike rawlings..........not very impressed with these shifters.


----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Dalton
To: Mike Rawlings
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 4:39 PM
Subject: RE:Re: [CR]lurker question



> I was joking about the suitability of you question for
> the list. Anything friction is sufficiently retro,
> I'm sure.
>
> I think I know what you're saying about the feeling of
> the lever as you push it toward the frame stop, but
> there is no spring acting directly to force the lever
> toward the rear. I think you might be feeling the
> clutch slip a bit before it locks up and starts to
> rotate the shifter on the boss. In any case, I
> usually set the lever all the way forward and then
> tighten the cable so that it is not under any real
> tension. (Be sure the high limit screw on the rear
> der is set correctly first.) This way the lever is
> off the stop and the internal bearings have backed out
> of their locked-up position before you start have any
> effect at the rear derailleur. Running the cable
> tighter can also interfere with the rear der. moving
> all the way out to complete that all-important shift
> into the 12 (or in my case the 14).
>
> Tom
> --- Mike Rawlings <serious@dplus.net> wrote:
> > i asked the list keeper/manager before i posted to
> > the list , it's o.k. by
> > him! no i am not refering to the
> > "friction-screw-wingy-nut-thingy". looking
> > at the right lever , position the lever facing
> > straight down , assemble the
> > washers and tightening screw , then move the lever
> > to the stop.......all the
> > way front. this seems to set the spring inside so
> > that it's forcing the
> > lever towards the rear...i/e the lower gear. makes
> > sense if you are trying
> > to counter the pull of the rear derailler spring
> > pulling towards the high
> > gear. mike rawlings ----- Original
> > Message -----
> > From: "Tom Dalton" <tom_s_dalton@yahoo.com>
> > To: "Mike Rawlings" <serious@dplus.net>
> > Cc: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: [CR]lurker question
> >
> >
> > > I dunno Mike, but retrofrictions may be just a bit
> > > high-tech for this list! But, Campy did prototype
> > an
> > > NR/SR version, so we're in under the wire.
> > >
> > > I assume that by "preload" you are refering to the
> > > tightness of the friction-screw-wingnut-thingy
> > (tm).
> > > Set that as you would on any friction lever, so it
> > is
> > > tight enough not to slip and loose enough to move
> > > smoothly. (I usually just crank it down, since
> > there
> > > are some cupped spring washers in there that
> > provide
> > > forgiveness in the setting.) On upshifts (to
> > smaller
> > > cogs) all of the internals on this model rotate
> > around
> > > an axle formed by the boss and a steel insert that
> > > engages the boss. There are bronze washers on
> > either
> > > side of the lever to let things run smoothly.
> > >
> > > The retrofriction-ing takes place on downshifts
> > when
> > > the center of the lever's internals stays fixed
> > > relative to the boss/insert/washers while the
> > lever
> > > moves freely thanks to a clutch mechanism. The
> > clutch
> > > is actually three tiny springs that force three
> > tiny
> > > ball bearings into the alloy of the lever causing
> > the
> > > whole mechanism to turn during upshifts, whereas
> > the
> > > springs compress and the bearings roll allowing
> > the
> > > clutch to slip during downshifts. It's the steel-
> > > bearings-forced-into-soft-alloy feature that
> > causes
> > > these levers to wear out and begin to slip. At
> > that
> > > point the slippage is in the clutch and no amount
> > of
> > > wingnut tightening will help.
> > >
> > > If you are having any difficulty with these
> > levers,
> > > first make sure that they're not shot (slipping at
> > the
> > > clutch), then give them a good lubing with some
> > > viscous oil. Also, make sure that the spring
> > washers
> > > (two on each side) are set with the concave faces
> > > together. Some of the early instruction sheets
> > had
> > > this wrong.
> > >
> > > Tom Dalton
> > >
> > > --- Mike Rawlings <serious@dplus.net> wrote:
> > > > i'm mike rawlings who has read(for 7 months or
> > so)
> > > > but not posted to this list because my
> > lightweights
> > > > are not "classic". i do however ride lugged
> > steel
> > > > (basso , paramount , williams) and down tube
> > > > shifters. my question is.......the campy
> > > > retro-friction shifters , are the springs in the
> > > > levers to be preloaded? i did preload them with
> > > > about 3/4 of a
> > turn......correct.........incorrect?
> > > > thankyou. mike rawlings
> > > >
> > > >
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