List - Thanks for all the suggestions. Figured I'd consolidate all the various ideas sent to me and share with everyone. Hopefully when the question is asked again next year I/you can pull this list up then.
1. First, I make sure I have something elso to do like watch the tube, listen to tunes, or have company with whom to converse while doing glue removal, wheel lacing and truing, and other things that don't use the brain or communication senses. I take a screwdriver or other not-too-sharp scraping tool and run it around the rim (more convenient when min a stand or a bike frame) sideways (as if it were a tire lever) I scrape mostly the sides, and leave a little in the center. The new cement can rejuvenate/soften/disolve the old cement that's really tough to remove in the center and use it to an advantage.
Hope this helps Larry Black bike123.com
2. Believe it or not if the glue is very old and will chip away I use a pen knife and chip it off an 1/8 inch at a time. When you use solvent it gets everywhere and I mean everywhere. Sam
3. It's going to be labor intensive at best, but it can be done. 3M makes a product called Adhesive Remover-the number escapes me but if you need it, I can get it at work next week. We get it in gallons and it contains Xylene and some other nasty chemicals, so wear gloves and don't do it in the kitchen. Also be careful and don't get it on your decals as it may remove them too. If you get some coarse Scotchbrite and saturate it in the adhesive remover and start working. You need plenty of rags and it helps to keep a saturated rag in a shallow pan. Sit the wheel in the pan or on the saturated rag to hold the remover in intimate contact with the old glue. While this is happening, use a wetted piece of Scotchbrite to begin abrading the old glue on top of the rim, working your way around the rim. The glue will eventually soften and load up your Scotchbrite, so change when needed. It's not easy. Good luck. Sorry if this sounds like a 3M commercial-it's what we happen to use at work.
James Alexander
4. I find that glue is easiest to remove with the aid of a small flame on a propane torch. gently heat one section (between two spoke holes) and wipe with a rag. Like cleaning wax off cross-country skis.
DO NOT attempt this with foam-filled rims: they will go Ka-Boing!
harvey sachs
5. I used a electric heat paint remover(looks like a hair dryer), it get pretty hot, so do not overheat the rims. Or you can use a hair dryer, get warm so you can remove the glue easier.
Have a great weekend!
Let list member know how this idea works out later.
KEN TODA, your C-R friend
6. I use lighter fluid. It seems to strip most glues. Not sure how it works on GOBs.
Charlie Young Honeybrook, PA
7. I favor mechanical means-chuck a wire brush up in a drill motor and whirl away. Works great but do it outdoors-lots of dust. Phil Brown
8. I've done this (referring to #7) when the glue is completely dried out; otherwise, I just add fresh glue to whatever's there most of the time.
-S-
9. Has anyone ever tried adhesive release? I think it is a 3M product for automotive use. It will soften glue enough so you can rub it off. After that, you can use automotive adhesive cleaner or Prep Sol (used to clean primer before paint is applied) to remove the residue. Brother Bayliss should have some experience with these products.
Rick Chasteen, about to run errands on my Schwinn Heavy Duty (Classic, although not Listworthy) in Kansas City