Re: [CR] Fixed cup and headset tools - home made

(Example: Framebuilders:Rene Herse)

Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 06:25:08 -0700
From: "Brian Baylis" <rocklube@adnc.com>
To: Hilary Stone <hilary.stone@blueyonder.co.uk>
Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR] Fixed cup and headset tools - home made
References: <B7EA0C19.149B%hilary.stone@blueyonder.co.uk>


Hilary,

Those methods all work fine and those are gread solutions to professional tools. The 1 1/8" tube is especially useful in setting fork crown races since the introduction of SR headsets with reduced height reacs. The original campy tool usually contacts the sholder on the fork crown before the race is completely seated. I haven't used the campy tool without a piece of tubing on first for a long time. Also, I find it best to place the parts on the steerer and the hammer the tool as opposed to using it as a slide hammer. I saw a guy slip off once and slam the tool onto a brand new frame with a chrome crown and ruin it. Since I work on many small frames, it is a good habit to form; it will never slip off that way. Works better too.

Haven't used the campy (or any other) crown race rumover. Liked the campy one. Doesn't work on everything, tends to spread and slip over the race, seen many people hammer a fork blade or tang of the crown while using a campy tool. I hold the fork in a vice upside down(top of steer solid on vice as held gently between the softjaws. Then a 3/4" sq. piece of aluminium about 4" long is used to punch the race off by going around the sides back and forth until it slips off. Never damaged anything using this method, even the very delicate thin alloy types. Works for me.

Brian Baylis La Mesa, CA
>
> Fork Crown race
> A 50cm length of 1 1/8in diameter tube cut from a scrap frame will serve
> perfectly to mount a headset crown race.
> Frame cups
> Place the lower deeper frame cup and shallower top cups approximately in
> place and assemble a makeshift headset press from a length of 1/2in studding
> and two old style bottom bracket cups or sockets to press on the cups
> internal surfaces, held together with the appropriate nuts. DonĀ¹t press on
> the outer edges of alloy cups; it is normally safe to press on the hard
> bearing surfaces. Using two spanners tighten the nuts carefully pressing the
> cups into position. Continuously check that the cups are going in straight,
> if not tap free and start again. Ensure that they seat perfectly squarely
> and fully into the frame.
>
> Bottom bracket Cups
> A 16 x 100mm bolt and two nuts will take out even the most stubborn fixed
> cup. Screw one nut down about four cm, place the end through the fixed cup
> from the inside and screw on the second nut on the outside. Tighten this nut
> with a socket whilst holding the bolt head with a spanner. Then continue
> turning the outside second nut until the cup unscrews. With Italian threaded
> cups you need to turn the other end of the bolt. The bolt can also be used
> to install fixed cups. The bolt and the nuts are made of much softer steel
> than the cup surfaces so damage is done to the races.
>
> The only time you should need to go go to a local shop/framebuiklder is if
> your frame is being converted from the old English headset to a Campagnolo
> one. Then the crown race seat will probably need recutting and the head tube
> will need milling.
>
> Hilary Stone
>
> > The real bike mechanics are going to cringe but I have a Cresent adjustable
> > wrench that is almost 3 feet long and is as heavy as two of my bikes it has
> > enough leverage you just have to be careful not to scratch the paint. I put
> > duct tape on the paint and twist carefully. Just remember which way they are
> > threaded. Sam D.