[CR]RE: Classicrendezvous digest, Vol 1 #871 - 6 msgs

> I've found that the best stuff for my purposes is concentrated citrus
> degreaser. This stuff is sold in hardware stores and by some mail order bike
> places, but in small packages, it can be $40 per gallon or more. I was able to
> obtain some in 5 gallon pails from an industrial solvents supply house for less
> than half that. This stuff has become pretty common in industrial plant machine
> shops, motor pool shops, etc. in the last few years due to its low toxicity and
> lower flammability than petroleum solvents. In the residence I just moved from,
> I used half of a large enclosed front porch as a bike maintenance shop. This
> resulted in an irate spouse when I used kerosene for cleaning, but after I
> switshed to citrus degreaser, with a lemon/orange aroma, relative domestic
> harmony was restored. The stuff is still pricey, but it's much cheaper than
> divorce lawyers.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
>
> now of Houston, TX
>
> Bingham, Wayne R. wrote:
>
> > >>>>
> > Any of you have luck with a parts cleaner that is not smelly or toxic but
> > works well? I have used Pedro's and another biodegradable kind purchased
> > from bike shops that works well but it gets expensive in those little cans.
> >
> > Thanks for any suggestions.
> >
> > Kevin "I want a few more months of warmth" MacAfee
> > St. Paul, MN.<<<<<
> >
> > I've been using various LPS products for some time, and have been quite
> > pleased with them. They make several different cleaner/degreasers that
> > don't seem too toxic or offensive smelling. My favorites are Zero Tri and
> > Pre Solve for serious stuff, and Precision Clean for lesser jobs. I've used
> > these on MANY bike parts, with no problems. I also use their Contact
> > Cleaner for cleaning residue from other cleaners, stickers, tape, etc.
> > Their line of lubricants, especially the LPS-1, 2 and 3 series work well
> > too. The 3 is a rust inhibitor, which some people use as an internal frame
> > treatment (probably not as good as Frame Saver tho').
> >
> > Just my 2 "scents" worth.
> >
> > Wayne Bingham
> > Falls Church VA
> > _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>

_________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 2 From: "feldmans" <feldmanbike@yahoo.com> To: <Wornoutguy@aol.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: Re: [CR]Overtightening cranks Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:30:31 -0800

Vintage advice, from the 70's weight-weenie phase; to install crankarms with steel bolts and washers, torque to spec, remove steel hardware and replace
with aluminum.
ER

> I attempted to take a crank off of a friends bike who had used a pet Gorilla
> to install his crank arms. Lucky he had steel crank bolts because it took
> my 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a two foot extension of pipe to get the
> bolts free. I almost rounded one. It had not cracked the crank arms but
> they had gone way to far on the spindle. When I attempted to put them back
> on at the correct torque they worked. A few weeks later he came to me with a
> new set of arms. It was just as difficult to take them off the second time -
> the taper was destroyed even with correct torque they were history. This is
> not as vintage but on my bikes I use aluminum crank bolts. I tighten with a
> good sturdy steel bolt and my torque wrench. Then I remove the bolts. I
> use red lock tight on my aluminum bolts (one reason they are in a Ti spindle)
> and I just snug them in. I have not had to retighten them ever. (they had
> aluminum crank bolts in the 70s so this is kind of vintage). When chuck
> stated that automotive fasteners are replaced that is due to high torque -
> imagine the torque load on a head bolt compared to a bike crank -- imagine
> how much fun you would have replacing a headgasket (TWICE) and putting in all
> new bolts because you scrimped on head bolts and used the old ones in your
> car- How many of us replace the wheel studs every time we take a wheel off of
> our cars. I reuse aluminum fasteners on my bikes and have for years never
> had a failure. I can't imagine a steel crank bolt breaking because of reuse.
> Sam D.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>

_________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 3 From: "C. Andrews" <chasds@mindspring.com> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:43:32 -0800 Subject: [CR]For Sale: good, cheap 700c clincher wheelset

Came on a bike I just bought. Perfectly usable, just not very glamorous.

Sunshine high-flange hubs. Seem to be smooth.

3x galvanized spokes in clean condition. Not rusted.

No-name ("Formula" stamped on the curved lever) decent quick-release in the rear, Campagnolo GS with flat lever in the front, no rust, good chrome

Best thing about these are the rims: very clean set of silver anodized Weinmann 700c rims, with the hemispherical, offset spoke-holes. I forget the model now, but I believe these were the top 700c clincher rim in Weinmann's line for awhile.

Specialized 700c tires in used but good condition. Still some miles left on them.

I have WAY too many wheelsets right now, and no use for these.

$30 for the pair, plus shipping (probably about 12 bucks FEDEX ground, depending on destination).

E-mail me privately if you want them.

Charles Andrews Los Angeles

--__--__--

Message: 4 From: "C. Andrews" <chasds@mindspring.com> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:51:06 -0800 Subject: [CR]WTB: Regina/Everest freewheel tool

I busted my Regina freewheel tool awhile back and I can't find one to buy locally...half the guys in the LBS's I try don't even know what Regina was, alas...

Two questions:

1) if anyone here has a clean used Regina tool to sell, please let me know.

2) Lately on ebay there have been two Campagnolo freewheel tools that look like they'd work with Regina and Everest two-notch-with-rim freewheels. Anyone here know if that's actually the case?

Thanks.

Charles Andrews Los Angeles

--__--__--

Message: 5 Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 13:48:21 -0600 From: Jerry & Liz Moos <moos@penn.com> To: "Thomas R. Adams, Jr." <KCTOMMY@msn.com> Cc: Classic List <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: Re: [CR]Shimano Crane GS Capacities

You are correct, this is in fact a horizonal, not a slant, parallelogram, and the fact that the SunTour patent was still in force when the Crane appeared is the reason the slant design was not used. Shimano never exactly quit making the Crane, they just changed the name to Dura-Ace. The first Dura-Ace grouppos in the 70's had Crane RD's and the RD's in this group for some reason continued to be marked "Crane" for several years after all the other components were marked "Dura-Ace". Eventually, about 1980 I think, Shimano began marking the derailleurs "Dura-Ace" for consistency with the rest of the group. My only guess about the naming is that Crane had become fairly well established as an aftermarket replacement for some pretty wretched European wide ratio derailleurs, like the Campy Gran Tourismo "boat anchor", and perhaps Shimano wanted to use the good reputation of the Crane in the aftermarket segment to attract buyers to the Dura-Ace grouppo.

Regards,

Jerry Moos

Thomas R. Adams, Jr. wrote:
> I managed to acquire a Shimano Crane GS the other day, and I'm wondering about the details of this shifter. This is the rear long cage model with the round holes drilled in the front chain pull arm. I remember them being standard equipment on older touring Schwinn Paramounts.
>
> It appears to be a horizontal parallelogram design, but not a slant parallelogram. Was this piece made before Suntour's patent expired? When did Shimano stop making Crane derailers.
>
> What size freewheel with the Crane GS handle, and how much chain will it wrap? Does anyone have any experiences to share about the derailer's performance?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom Adams, Kansas City
>
> _______________________________________________

--__--__--

Message: 6 Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 14:05:08 -0600 From: Jerry & Liz Moos <moos@penn.com> To: Bruce & Marie Van Remortel <vrgeckos@ite.net> Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]Anyone up on the French 28.0 vice 28.6 seat tube diameter?

As to how many French bikes have French diameter tubing, the answer, at least from the late 60's (and probably long before) until the early to mid 80's, is most of them. I have a number of Peugeots, Motobecanes, Lejeunes, Gitanes, and Merciers, etc. and in this era, nearly all had the French dimension tubing. Fortunately, one can nearly always shim a standard FD clamp to fit a French seattube, and many French FD clamps will work OK on a standard seattube, though one must be careful, as some French FD clamps can crimp a standard seattube.

Regards,

Jerry Moos

Bruce & Marie Van Remortel wrote:
> Howdy CR list members,
>
> Looks like I may have a Jubilee Front derailleur made for the 28.0mm French
> standard and my frame is 28.6 BSC standard... Anyone else have this
> problem? I was told that "IF" it was a French-diameter 28.0mm it would've
> been stamped with something but this one is just a standard unmarked
> Jubilee, in all it's beauty. Maybe this person had it backwards and the
> BSC's had a marking/stamping???
>
> I don't think the derailleur band will close enough to catch a thread to
> close this thing... Am I outta luck?
>
> How many French bikes really have French diameter tubing? I had heard
> Singer used it... Thanks if anyone can help!
>
> Regards,
> Bruce Van Remortel
> Andersen AFB, Guam USA
> Always 80-something
>
> _______________________________________________

--__--__--

_______________________________________________

End of Classicrendezvous Digest