Re: [CR]Cloth tape tips and tricks

(Example: Framebuilding:Paint)

From: <Wdgadd@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 20:31:31 EST
Subject: Re: [CR]Cloth tape tips and tricks
To: jim@alandavid.com, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org, claws24@home.com


Tressostar is the "classic" item, but it can be difficult to work with. I even go a little bit beyond the strip on each clamp band method, and do a sort of figure 8 around each lever before starting to wrap. This eliminates the bare sliver that often seems impossible to cover otherwise. Alternatively, on non-aero/Ergo levers , the lever can be located at the desired position on the bars,the lever body can then be removed from the clamp, and the bar can be wrapped right up to the mounting stud, using some caution not to disturb the position of the clamp. After taping and replacing the lever bodies, small adjustments in position are still possible (just to even up slight differences between the levers). Tressostar is not very flexible; it seems like it is happier being wrapped straight onto the roll! Just pull, pull, pull and wiggle side to side to make it lay flat as you wrap. I also find that on tight bends it needs to be overlapped more than on straight runs. Grant Peterson suggested stopping at the lever an "cheating" by cutting the tape, tucking the end beneath the hood, and continuing anew on the other side (all after pre-wrapping the lever area as mentioned earlier. A good idea. I think Sheldon mentioned Cateye tape not long ago. This is MUCH easier to use (more flexible), but looks and feels a little different (thinner) than Tressostar. I've often used double layers of this with good results.

Best Regards, Wes Gadd