I am still working on getting my significant other's bike comfortable for her. We are working with hidden padding under the bike tape in a small critical part of the drops, a modern Specialized seat with the "nerve tunnel" and now the microadjust seat post. Everything I do seem to improve things for her, including finding a Cinelli stem that seems to measure 11.5 cm.
The question is, now that we have found that only a microadjust seat post will achieve the perfect seat tilt, we will keep an eye out for a more classic version. Those of you that follow our family bike dramas know that her race bike is not quite a classic by year, but a Giordana lugged steel, made by Tomessini and equipped with dt Shimano indexed 7 speed ( the most functional race set-up ever made IMHO). I purchased a new cheap microadjust that I cleaned up with a dremel grinder and polishing wheel. The final result is very functional, easy to use, but somewhat Frankensteinish, with the two bolts coming out like twin monster electrodes (you know the style).
I never had the good fortune to own a Campy microadjust (either the super classic campy that requires a special wrench to get at the bolt under the seat, or the 80's version that was supposedly a big improvement). How did that second version work, and what would I have to be willing to pay for it in a 27.2 size? I can't picture how the newer Campy would function by looking a E. Sloane's picture of it.
My second question is did Raleigh possibly order 531-C tubing in a 27.0 seat tube size? My 80's Raleigh seems to have a shade more than usual resistance to a 27.2 post even when greased. The collar has definitely never suffered from overtightening, nor is there excess flashing on the lug that might cause a bit of binding. 27.2 seat posts still slide in and out with a firm twisting hand, but it doesn't go like butter. Would 27.0 be a better fit, or should I not even try, if 27.2 is still very workable? Are different seat lugs slightly differently sized historically?
I clean the frame with simple green or just a moist cloth. Aluminum parts, I clean with WD-40 or just Kerosene, which I guess is the same thing. Detergent motor oil works well too, and I prefer it. If something is very dirty, I use Gojo hand cleaner or even brake cleaner! I just started cleaning the chain with Finish Lines' plastic gizmo and Ecotech biodegradable cleaner in the device. The result seems to be just as clean as it can be, but the problem with chains is not dissolving dirt but getting the silica based sandy grit out of the inner parts. Once you dissolve the oil the brushes seem to agitate it out. I finish with Finish Line's "dry?" chain lube with Teflon. Now the Regina chain is sweet and soft across the Regina freewheel (like fine metals singing in the wind).
Garth Libre, happily training in high 70's South Florida, Surfside. Tonight's ride had me keeping up a steady 30 mph for 0.75 of a mile in 52-15, which qualifies me as a rather fast women rider. Too bad I am a man. Hasta luego, amigos mios.