The old timers used to also use the then equivalent of locktite (probably shellac) or crimp the nipples to keep the slacker spokes from unwinding. I think tying and soldering had a role too. I wonder if anyone really knows the lore of building proper lightweight wood rimmed wheels anymore. Jeff?
Joe Bender-Zanoni Ann Arbor, Michigan
(Just got word today that a venerable but unloved France Sport that passed through a few members hands proudly made the trip to Mount Fuji last week.) (This same individual is looking for a Cinelli Special Corsa or B and it is easy to deal with him because his sister works for a shipping company so let me know if anyone has a 55 or so cm c-c.)
At 04:19 PM 2/28/01 -0700, Monkeyman wrote:
>>.........can any enlightened members advise on the building of the above,
>>having purchased a set of 70's (NOS)Wooden Rims at a local cycle jumble I
>>have had them recently built up. The wheelbuilder said he didn't want
>>to tension too tightly as he felt that being wood the spoke nipple head
would
>>embed deeper in the rim, my thoughts later was maybe to put a small washer
>>in place beneath the nipple head prior to lacing therefore giving a greater
>>diameter. Would this have been normal practice?
>> Don't say try different nipples as the extra long
>>type designed for these rims were extremely difficult to track down!!
>>Meanwhile the spokes do feel "twangy"
>>...........any ideas anyone?
>
>Long nipples and washers are the key to building wood rims. Spoke tension
>was lower back in "the day" and I can't give you any real actual numbers
>since my tensiometer is in my fingers, but my guess is one half to one full
>turn less than modern tight. I don't know what nipples you're looking for
>but DTs still come in 16mm which should be fine.
>
>enjoy,
>Brandon"monkeyman"Ives
>
>
>Brandon and Mitzi's-- "Wurld uv Wunder"
>http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~capybara/
>
>Monkeyman's on going bicycle part garage sale <<<NEW LISTINGS>>>
>http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~mkirklan/salepage/garage.html
>
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