If you get the 'fit' right first the amount of "drawing-on" you have to do shouldn't mean running the risk of stripping the threads. I say shouldn't - but this of course is dependant on just how hard and what's used to tighten the nut. I got taught at college, that torque wrenches were just a more accurate spanner - spanners then being uniformly of a length that the "average" man would tighten it properly and yet not exceed the elastic limit of the bolt/nut combination when applied correctly (i.e. no bars or tubes involved), but this was for "standard" bolts where they were designed for a specific clamping load tightened by "standard" spanners - and then there were cotter pins, cycle threads and tools (engineering on a budget) and a virtual thread war between B.S.A. and Raleigh.
When your faced with a cheap cotterless crank wedged onto the BB axle and with no threads left for the extractor to grip on - you might just remember how easy most cotter pins were to come out if done correctly.
p.s. I still have not came across "standard-man" (though we do have case law who says who he is - the man on the Clapham Omnibus)
:-)
best regards
Bob Reid Stonehaven Scotland
> From: RALEIGH531@aol.com
> Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 06:58:25 EST
> To: bob.reid1@virgin.net, Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]cottered cranks question
>
> I don't see anything wrong with fine tuning the fit with a file, on the other
> hand I thought you weren't supposed to draw the pin tight with the nut
> because of danger of stripping the threads on the pin and/or nut.
>
>
> Pete Geurds
> Douglassville, Pa