No doubt they are good and durable rims suitable for many types of fast riding. In general I classify all tubulars as race rims. Back in the day when clinchers just didn't cut it (and yes, some will argue that they still don't) it was primarily racers and go-fast enthusiasts who used tubulars. Not too many tourists, or commuters, or recreational riders, as I recall. In particular the GL 330 is a rim that I would have reserved for races only back when it was current technology. They were just a little too light to stand up to the occasional pothole. I found them to be passable on the front, but a durable rear called for a GP4. No problems with fatigue failures, they just didn't allow me to take the pothole when I couldn't change my line.
Tom Dalton
> What means "race rims" in this context? I do lots
> of everyday riding on
> these and even lighter rims and they're quite
> durable, IMO.
>
> -S-
>
> Tom Dalton wrote:
> >
> > If the hubs have previously been built, you should
> try
> > to use the pattern that was used before. It will
> be
> > obvious based on the deformation to the flange.
> If
> > the hubs are NOS, I'd go 3x. You're using GL330's
> > which are race rims, and racing wheels should be
> 3X,
> > especially if you want to be period correct. Why
> > should racing wheels be three cross? I dunno,
> that's
> > just the way it was done. looks cooler. Anyway,
> I
> > can't answer your question about spoke head
> > interference, but I'd discourage both mixing
> patterns
> > on the hubs, and relegating any good NOS hubs to
> 4x
> > service.
> >
> > Tom Dalton
> > --- sterling peters <sterlingcapital@mail.com>
> wrote:
> > > Has anyone had some experience building 4x 36
> hole
> > > small flange hubs?
> > > Specifically campy 36 hole 4x to Mavic gel 330.
> ?
> > > Question? Have you run
> > > into any problems with the spokes crossing over
> > > spoke heads at the flange?
> > > If so would you suggest I stick to 3x. Thanks,
> > > Sterling P.S. I'd like to
> > > know before I buy the spokes.
> > >
> > >
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