David,
I would imagine there are a number of choices one could use to get satisfactory results, but I only keep up on the things I have used for a very long time and know I get good results with. My choice of primer (and in common use amongst many pros) is Ditzler DP-40. I believe it was first introduced to " SoCal painters" by Jim Allen who was painting Masis in the early 80's. Jim Allen did some testing and came up with this primer as most compatible with Imron. I agree. I've used it ever since, although here in CA it went to a lead free formula not long ago and I've gotten used to it but prefer the original formulation.
Sorry I can't expound, but my theory is if it works, don't fix it.
Brian Baylis
La Mesa, CA
>
> : [CR]A few more tips on painting
>
> > Listmembers,
> >
> > So keep the primer thin and continue to the end that way if you want a
> > durable finish. Thick primer may work on a classic auto with a
> > hand-rubbed lacquer finish; but it's a recipe for failier on a bicycle.
> > Hope this information will be of some use to you guys who like to work
> > on your own stuff.
> >
>
> Brian,
>
> When you refer to "green" primer, are you refering to an etching primer like
> Vari-Prime (a DuPont product I believe)?
> We use this product to prime all of our metal prior to surface priming.
>
> David Goerndt
> Orlando, FL