Re: [CR]A few more tips on painting

(Example: Production Builders:LeJeune)

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 20:38:11 -0800
From: "Jim Allen" <jimallen@nctimes.net>
To: rocklube@adnc.com
Cc: David Goerndt <davidg@iag.net>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR]A few more tips on painting
References: <3C4780E5.1AC0@adnc.com> <002501c1a06c$572c07a0$da4a1ecf@LEONARDO> <3C48CD60.7B41@adnc.com>


Brian note reminded me of some of the impromptu research we did to get up and running.

One involved a visit to the PPG Industrial Paint facility in LA. We were using a primer designated "UC40485".

This primer required baking to 425 degrees fahrenheit. Wonderful stuff, really went on thin and war hard to remove once baked on! Anyway, after describing the process and techniques we were using the PPG technicians pointed out that if the surface prep (sandblasting to white metal) was as we described, there was no need for primer! Never took that bit of advice....

Still sniffen fumes after all these years, and still haven't acheived that classic Joe Bell look.

Jim Allen

Brian Baylis wrote:
> David,
>
> I would imagine there are a number of choices one could use to get
> satisfactory results, but I only keep up on the things I have used for a
> very long time and know I get good results with. My choice of primer
> (and in common use amongst many pros) is Ditzler DP-40. I believe it was
> first introduced to " SoCal painters" by Jim Allen who was painting
> Masis in the early 80's. Jim Allen did some testing and came up with
> this primer as most compatible with Imron. I agree. I've used it ever
> since, although here in CA it went to a lead free formula not long ago
> and I've gotten used to it but prefer the original formulation.
>
> Sorry I can't expound, but my theory is if it works, don't fix it.
>
> Brian Baylis
> La Mesa, CA
>
>> : [CR]A few more tips on painting
>>
>>> Listmembers,
>>>
>>> So keep the primer thin and continue to the end that way if you want a
>>> durable finish. Thick primer may work on a classic auto with a
>>> hand-rubbed lacquer finish; but it's a recipe for failier on a bicycle.
>>> Hope this information will be of some use to you guys who like to work
>>> on your own stuff.
>>>
>> Brian,
>>
>> When you refer to "green" primer, are you refering to an etching primer like
>> Vari-Prime (a DuPont product I believe)?
>> We use this product to prime all of our metal prior to surface priming.
>>
>> David Goerndt
>> Orlando, FL