I had a similar problem not long ago and got a simple solution from the CR list. Take a thin brass or aluminum sheet (beer can works great) and cut a shim in the shape of a custom maltese cross that will fold over the end of your axle spindle. After trimming it to size, drill a hole in the middle to accomodate the axle bolt and voilà...it only take a small shim to move the crank out a couple of mm's.
This works very well when using BBs that can't be shited over. Contact me offlist if you need clarification.
Warren Young Toronto
>Dan Goldenberg [mailto:d.g1@mindspring.com] wrote:
>
>> The only snag so far is that I had a small problem installing
>> the Zephyr crank. There are compromises to be made to a bike
>> to allow the use of fat tires (I believe up to 700x38 on the
>> Rambo). This necessitates having the chainstays flare out.
>> When I went to install the Zephyr, using the Riv supplied
>> Phil Wood 123 bb, there was interference between the crank
>> and the frame. The unusual thing is that the interference was
>> not with the chainrings/chainstays, but with the inner 74 BCD
>> chainring bolts and the very rear of the bottom bracket
>> shell/lug where the right chainstay enters the bottom
>> bracket. The interference will therefore be there regardless
>> of what chainrings you use. I don't know if this would be a
>> problem with other 110/74 pattern cranks, but I doubt this
>> would be an issue with a 130/135 BCD triple. There was plenty
>> of clearance with the chainrings (46/36/26). My solution was
>> to shift the Phil about 3.5 mm to the right which gave almost
>> 2mm clearance at the offending area. The chainline for the
>> crank is now at 47mm, which I think is a couple of mm
>> outboard of neutral, which may be good or bad depending on
>> what rear cogs you use.