Re: [CR]New Respect for bike painters

(Example: Events:Cirque du Cyclisme)

Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 10:55:58 -0700
From: "Brian Baylis" <rocklube@adnc.com>
To: Wornoutguy@aol.com
Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR]New Respect for bike painters
References: <48.aa598ed.29fd7879@aol.com>


Sam,

Welcome to reality. Painting bikes seems easy and something I deffinitely rake for granted myself. Fact is that it is a specialized skill and the results depend as much on one's skill and experience as the materials one uses. Furthermore, even if one gets a nice paint job, if it doesn't stay put then you're still one important step away from having real success. Since our previous conversations regarding paint application and durability I have been paying even more than normal attention to thickenss (actually thiness) of paint films. There is no doubt in my mind now that when it comes to "restoations" and OEM on custom frames the thinest are most durable and also look most authentic. Nothing destroys the look of a restoration more than extra thick and heavy clear coating. Older frames use a lot more clamping type fittings and therefore require thin paint in order not to chip and smoosh paint all over the place. I'm bringing a perfevt example of how paint should act when done properly; I just frmoved the ft. clamp-on deraiiler from my frame in prep for sending to the Cirque. There is a "really nice" dent from the damn der. but the paint is showing a perfect specimine of thin and tenacious paint. Having seen some really poor paint jobs lately, the difference is like night and day. Barely even a mark where the rear wheel clamps. If your paint "chips" there then it is either too hard, too thick, or improperly applied. Good paint acts good, period!

Thanks for mentioning that even with some skills as a painter, there is more to it than meets the eye. BTW, the trick to not missing spots on frames is to develope a pattern that you repeat the same every time; especially important when final clearcoating. My pattern has not changed since it was taught to me by the original Masi painter. It is the best and most thought out pattern I've ever seen and it works for me every time; even when lighting is not optimium.

Brian Baylis La Mesa, CA "Thin is in."
>
> I used to paint cars and now that I have 4 bikes I have been prepping and
> painting I have a little more respect for people who paint bikes. I wanted
> to pass on some wisdom I am finding as a guy at home painting. I never
> missed any part of a car by not getting any color coat but this is easy to do
> with my bikes. First off no matter what angle I put the frame there are
> parts in bad lighting so it is difficult to tell where you have paint and
> where you don't. I have moved the bike in the holder around and thought I
> had it all only to find no paint on the bottom of the rear brake bridge or on
> the inside of the seat stays. Time to paint again not a good situation.
> Painting a car fender is easier then painting a bike fender how do you hang
> it? How do you hang it so it doesn't spin and you can paint inside and
> outside? I have painted all kinds of cool flames and stripes on cars, new
> problem, laying fine line on small round tubes is harder than flames on cars
> and the stripes are much closer together. Lots and lots of time invested to
> get results. Hats off to you guys who paint these things -- The sad
> truth is the painter at the last body shop I managed made almost $100,000 a
> year how many bike painters make that???? I am having fun but have
> found I no longer have the patience I used to. Sam DiBartolomeo
> Riverside, CA