Dear listmembers,
In amongst my regular duties around here I have also begun to sort out my AeroTour; one tiny piece at a time. Having been thinking about this stuff for a few weeks now and I've had plenty of time to digest the concept and arrive at an absolute certainty as to what I want this bike to do for me. It will be my tool for long rides probably for the rest of my life. I suspect if I tend to the details of it now, it will never be outdated or useless as a tool. As a concept and as an exercise in "thinking outside the box" perhaps it is too soon to judge wheather the project will be a success. The answer to these questions will probably come within a year; although for me I'm already convinced that I and this project are ripe for one another. To keep thinking in traditional ways and yet be able to incorperate new developments into the design keep it just "fresh" enough to be interesting. I don't plan to go "overboard"; but then that is being defined by an admitted eccentric.
My quest today began with a "search mission" for some 165mm crankarms. I may need every mm I can get to clear my foot and fender; even with the small wheel. I don't mind using short crankarms; I can't tell the differance between 165, 167.5, or 170mm cranks. They all work fine for me. I'm a spinner but I have some gearing set-ups that most people call INSANE! I ride a very small frame and I'm 5'5 1/2" tall. The chainring combinations I come up with oftentimes cause people heart failier. I'll explain later.
I knew I had two pair of NR crankarms in 165mm somewhere in my stuff. I also figured I'd better see what options I had in 167.5mm also just in case. Once I found what I had for crankarms, I would have to sort thru chainrings to see what I could make fly. Wait until you hear what I fished out of the goulash. One thing I've been doing for the past several years is building up my personal bikes useing primarily parts on hand. That has resulted in several bikes with a "hodge podge" of parts on them. I haven't bought a grouppo for years. I've realized that I like doing it this way. It's a challange somewhat like "Junkyard Wars"; "here, make a beaufiful touring bike out of this pile of junk".
I hope Dale will allow me a little bit of leeway on exact dates on some of the parts chosen for these "AeroTours" on the grounds that of course the frame is constructed in the classic way using classic materials; and the "spirit" of the project includes selecting the parts that best serve the custom needs of the owner/user of this machine. In my case, I generally don't get more modern than 1993; the one and only year Campagnolo made 7sp cassette indexed shifting components. I can live with everything prior to that with no problem. I like Look style clipless pedals. I've not gone beyone that, nor will I. Toe clips or Look style only; otherwise I'm lost. (we'll, I suppose there's SGR or Cinelli M-71 clipless; in which case I'd probably be dead!) I'm finding that in the world of "Touring" there isn't the same need to have the latest trick stuff since there's no competition. One goes for what's comfortable, practical, strong, light, and servicable. Planning ahead a little further than just the finish line. I like this kind of thinking. Problem solving, creativly applying your knowledge and experience combined with that of others with more background in the genre; the old two heads are better than one trick. I have to admit here that projects like this can be so energy intensive that the only way they will ever get done is to ride the waves of entheusiasm while the surf is up, so to speak. I find that if I gather up as much as I can of the parts and materials for the frame and put everything in one box, that gives the process a beginning. That is why I'm "dumpster diving" through all my parts and materials lately. Everytime I have an idea or think of what part would be good for the bike, I search it out to put in my box. This will go on for a while until I have everything I need except that which I don't have. At that point I also know what parts I need to come up with. For me, this is one of my favorite times in the birth of a bicycle. Both components and tubes are selected one part at a time until the whole bike fits the specifications of the buyer; who in this case is an eccentric pauper from the West Coast; me of course. Most people buy a group and are done with it. The AeroTour is going to buck this trend.
Here's an example of how many tributaries can end up on a bike like this. I decided on making a small utility knife as one of the "appointments" for this bike. A "skelaton" type knife made from ATS-34 steel would be the most "practical" knife overall. In my case, I want to make the entire knife myself; including the heat treating (this just for grins and maybe to add some "mojo" to the bikes' future as a collectable). I have the proper steel (O1 tool steel) for making a blade that I can file and grind by hand and also heat treat in a coal fire in my backyard when the time comes. It won't be stainless steel but it will work as a good utility knife. I decided to use stock 5/32" thick to make a light and slender knife. I went for a hunt for such a piece of steel in my stuff and sure enough I found some O1 of that thickness that is 1 1/4" wide and 8" plus long. I free hand sketched one design which is a bit more "artsy" than the mini-droppoint design of my second sketch. The main trait for a knife like this is to keep the blade under 4" long so that it will not be illegal to conceal in your bags. The "long" knife has a 3 1/2" blade and is a total length of 7 7/8" (I'll call this one the model "77"). The smaller knife has a 2 1/2" blade and is 6" over all. ( I suppose that makes this one a model "60"). I will probably go with the mod. 60 with nickel silver bolster and Burgandy linin micarta scales. I should also make one "skelaton" style knife with the heart, spade, club, and diamond cut out of the tapered tang of the knife for lightness.
During my crankarm hunt I turned up 2- NR 165mm sets, 3- 167.5mm sets (2 camp., 1 Shim) and one 170mm (NOS Stronglight 49D, I think) set that work for triple chainrings. Since this bike is running 650c wheels, I need larger than normal chainrings (I loose about 3 teeth in the conversion. To get an equiv. gear w/ a 650 wheel you need 3 tooth larger rings. To get my normal top gear with 700c (56 x11= about 131 gear inches) it takes some doing with 650c. A 64 x12 does it with the larger 28mm tire. Are your eyes blinking and your jaw dropped to the floor?? YES, I know this is not normal. Most of you think you couldn't possibly even push a 61 x 12 (equiv. for 700c). I'll bet most of you have never tried it either. Hey, they don't call me eccentric (or stupid, or certifyable, or crippled) for nothing. But I ride this way and I live to tell the stories! And I DO have stories. Anyone notice on last Sundays vintage ride who sucked the wheel of a BMW down the last hill to pass everyone before we hit the bottom?? That blue streek stuck to the back of the white Beamer was me. I expect to behave the same way on the AeroTour, even if loaded with gear. And trust me, I will! Another thing about these outrageous gear combinations; they can be changed to "normal" arrangements in minutes. I'm not going to weld the chainrings to the cranks. I can reduce the gears when I feel like it; don't freak out on me.
My chainring search turned up the perfect combinations of rings for every crank option I have. NR 144 BPD, 165mm, 64-49-36; Shimano 600 130BPD, 167.5mm, 58-42-30; or Stronglight 49D 170mm, 64-49-34; and several other variations. I think I'll go with the Shimano since it's Low profile; a std. double BB will work with the triple setup. With the NR arms I'll need a trip. BB. With my '93 Record cranks I am OK with std. BB on trip. rings also. That crank has 58-42-30 rings ready minus one ring. Anyone have a TA chainring 135mm BPD and 58 tooth? I'd like to use this crank if it clears the fender.
I spent some time looking thru a copy of the "83 Data Book" for ideas; big mistake! Way too many fun things one could do if you were inclined. Has anyone noticed how many designs for front and rear suspended road bikes there are in those drawings? Now there's something for when I really get old. Another project bike, crap!
Now that everyone knows for sure I'm a genuine crackpot (64 x12 INDEED!)and what kind of thinking causes it; you should have a better idea the number and complexity of details I will be encountering. We've barely scratched the surface. But the journey is just as much fun as the destination in this case. So, when you're riding along some day in Southern California and suddenly the air around you begins to swhirl and blow, air is being sucked out of your lungs, even the air in your tires is in jeopardy (if your valve caps aren't REAL tight); you'll know that somewhere nearby I'm comming up from behind you at lightspeed sucking in air like a turbine, as I furiously pump my tiny little legs in 64 x12 right past you. As you turn your head to see where the vacuum is comming from I'll squirm past you so low on my tiny little wheels that you won't see a thing. No one ever looks for something going that fast at knee level, HA! I'll pick your pocket on the way past (since I'm invisible) and then use the money to buy you lunch when we stop. When we get to the eatery I'll whip out my custom table service and dine. Life is grand.
Each rider will set their bike up for their needs. What a concept. More later. I am starting to see how looking at a bicycle from the "constructuer" perspective is quite different from the frame-grouppo-done route. After looking at the Data Book it is obvious that some of the stuff was super custom, maybe only appearing that way on one bike. The bike can be made a self contained unit if that's what one wants. My bike will be an all arounder. It will have practical accessories, be touring or day ride oriented, and exibit some of my favorite styles found in bicycle design. I'll also lay odds that this bike will ride and perform perfectly as a tourer lightly loaded and at the same time be completely capable of racing (both criterium or road race) with only a change in tires. Again, that's why I like the 650c wheel as opposed to the 650B or 26" alternatives for a bike my size. Everyone keeps suggesting the 26" wheel. Watch the way this bike gets ridden and you will untimately agree that I made the correct choice.
Enough for now.
Brian Baylis
La Mesa, CA