>>Does anyone out there actually believe that bike lubricants are specially
>>formulated for use in bicycles?
No, but... with the nearly endless variety of greases that are formulated for all manner of characteristics and applications, it seems unlikely that greases marketed as bicycle-specific are not selected from the available offerings. Ideally the marketer selects the grease that is suitable in physical characteristics and cost. I have observed that most of the "bicycle" greases available today are pretty decent, and that this ideal is largely met. This contrasts with the situation 20 years ago when some "bicycle" greases were not suitable for their stated purpose. If folks can save a nickel by selecting an inexpesive industrial product on their own, rather than paying Perdo or Phil or whoever to do so, more power to 'em. I haven't the inclination. Tom Dalton Bethlehem, PA Stephen Barner wrote:My experience has been different than Mark's. I have had problems with crank arms moving too far on the flats due to grease on the tapers. I read in some Campy literature many years ago that 'the oil from the side of the nose is sufficient' (wildly paraphrased). After many inappropriate shop jokes, I decided that it makes good sense, even if I am not Italian and have a diet light in olive oil. This reference also recommended seating the arms on the spindle with a mallet (a leather covered wood block protects the finish on the arm), using the bolt to hold the arm on, not to act as a press. A more important factor, however, is the torque specification for crank bolts. I have never seen this listed. Does anyone know if this information is available anywhere? It would have to be different for different cranksets, due to variations in aluminum alloys and bolt strength.
After reading Jobst's post, I must say that he continues to do an excellent job convincing me that he doesn't have a clue as to what he is talking about, even if he does sound as if his conjectures and fantasies have some basis in fact. If your dustcaps ever serve to keep your crank bolts from falling out you are in serious need of a new mechanic. Speaking of dustcaps, there really is nothing wrong with them, and they do protect the threads. Always grease them, even if they are plastic. Cut a round piece of rubber from a thin innertube and place it between the bolt and cap on those that come off with a hex key. It keeps water from collecting inside the cap
I would never use locktite on any part of a crank unless it was the only way to keep a French or Italian right cup from loosening up in an oversized or stretched BB shell. Always grease the threads of the cups before installations and make sure the right cup is as tight as you can get it without snarfing the finish or flats. I use disk brake wheel bearing grease in the bearings. It's low viscosity yet stays put, doesn't dry out like white lithium, and it's cheaper than snot. Heck, you can add some food coloring, print your name on the tub and sell it in bike shops for a princely markup like some famous component manufacturers do. Does anyone out there actually believe that bike lubricants are specially formulated for use in bicycles?
Steve Barner, stirring the oil back into my last tub of Campy grease on Bolton, Vermont. Is this stuff supposed to separate like cheap peanut butter? Maybe it really IS peanut butter!
----- Original Message ----- > From: Mark Bulgier
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: RE: [CR]Campagnolo Bottom bracket question or 2
> Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 11:01:54 -0700
>
>
> Peter Bridge wrote:
>
> > Greasing the tapers can result in overtightening
> > and expansion of the hole in the arm.
>
> Yes it's the old debate, endlessly rehashed. I just want to point out
that
> Peter's pronouncement is controversial, so newer members don't think the
> issue is settled.
>
> I started greasing tapers 30 years ago and haven't seen a problem with one
I
> assembled yet, including cranks ridden by top amateur racers (including
> several US National sprint champions) and one 50k mi/year multi-time Race
> Across America competitor.
>
> Others report similar success with dry tapers, yet some people do have
> problems with that crank/axle interface, whether dry or greased. So I
think
> it's clear that neither way is guaranteed to work or not work - there must
> be other factors at work here that are equally important or more so.
>
> People can take a side of course, but I think it's fair to mention the
fact
> that it's controversial.
>
> Mark Bulgier
> Seattle, Wa
> USA
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> End of Classicrendezvous Digest
>
>
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