I learned a long time ago to not use a flat, blade-like headset wrench on
aluminum top nuts instead using large adjustable wrenches until Stein
wrenches became available. A good quality, properly adjusted 12" crescent
is a proper tool for this work--plus, it's period correct for your 70's
Super Record, Edco, or other early aluminum headset. Oiling threads--a good
idea most places, and also under the lockring on adjustable bottom bracket
cups so that a dry lockring doesn't make the cup "creep" and make repeated
adjustments necessary.
David Feldman
Vancouver, WA
> All CRs:
>
> I found in the past that greasing the threads of a steel steering tube
> allowed for an aluminum headset to drift and lose its setting faster. This
> was not a problem with a steel headset installed on a steel steering tube.
>
> So, I've eliminated my problem with an aluminum headset drifting because I
> use OIL to lubricate the steering tube threads. My favorite is Phil Wood
> ("Uncle Phil") but any thicker oil will probably do.
>
> Similarly, I've lightly oiled the BB axle tapers without bad effects. One
> drop, rubbed around all four sides, just enough to dampen the surface of
the
> axle, has been fine for me.
>
> The drifting of aluminum on steel, when using grease, has been consistent.
I
> once ruined a NR hub when the greased setscrew of a rear NR derailleur
> loosened up and put the chain in the spokes (circa 1977).
> After a rear wheel rebuild, the setscrew stayed put when I used oil.
>
> I hate learning the hard way!
>
> Andrew Gillis (Long Beach, CA)