In a message dated 1/18/2002 12:13:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, rocklube@adnc.com writes:
> So keep the primer thin and continue to the end that way if you want a
> durable finish. Thick primer may work on a classic auto with a
> hand-rubbed lacquer finish; but it's a recipe for failier on a bicycle.
> Hope this information will be of some use to you guys who like to work
> on your own stuff.
>
>
No expert here but I believe auto restorations get a lot of primer coats so there is something to sand in an attempt to do away with high and low spots and thus make the sheetmetal ''straighter". Alternating colors makes this easy to see if not alarming! Of course parts aren't being clamped on per se but a lot of trim and emblems were bolted on which happen to be great places to find rust. I admit that I'd be tempted to try filling rust pits (found mostly near and under clamp-on components - who'd a thought!) with more primer but perhaps actually mixing up some bondo would be better? I've also used spotting putty. Not sure which is better, the spotting putty comes in a big toothpaste type tube and requires no mixing so is quick and easy. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience. I'm thinking of painting a frame, a bit put off by the cable stops so far.
Pete Geurds
Douglassville, PA