Re: [CR]Cold setting/ using Montelatici frames

(Example: Framebuilding:Restoration)

From: "Brian Baylis" <rocklube@adnc.com>
To: OROBOYZ@aol.com
Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR]Cold setting/ using Montelatici frames
References: <141.65f02a.2adc5f47@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 11:13:08 -0700

Dale,

I have one of the Montelatici frames in 50.7cm c-t which I built a fork for, since my frame was a "stray". It's a nice piece of work for reasonable money. It rides well with 4.2cm or rake and a 72 degree head angle. I set mine up with a 5 speed freewheel and 165mm cranks. I see no reason to move them to 126mm; what's wrong with leaving it period correct? Sure, moving it to 126 is easily done and if I were to go that route would put a 7 spd cassette drivetrain on it. But my frame is early 70's and made for nutted brakes. I feel better leaving it 5 spd. and I am enjoying the ride just fine.

Brian Baylis La Mesa, CA My collection of bikes has grown substiantially recently. I'm pregnant with several more! Where am I going to put them; worse yet, how will I feed them all?!


>
> In a message dated 10/14/2002 1:33:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jim@alandavid.com writes:
>
> << If a Columbus or Reynolds steel frameset that originally had rear spacing
> at 120 mm was cold set to 126 mm would it be ok to have it re-set back to 120
> mm or best to keep it at the new dimension of 126 mm? >>
>
> This reminds me...
>
> I heard recently that attendees at the Velo Rendezvous were talking about how
> those bare :Cinelli-made" frame sold by Matteo Brandi (sp?) were not much use
> with modern parts because they were 120 spacing and it was a bad idea to set
> at 126 or 130... Bologna! The total difference between 120 and 126 is 6 mm
> right?.....then half that, per side, is 3 mm each, right? That's is nothing..
> A brass or silver brazed frame can easily be set to either with minimal to
> zero affect on the frame.
>
> You do have to be very careful to set it correctly so the frame remains
> symmetric. That is the same amount of change on each side.
>
> A Campy straight edge tool is very useful here. Remove the bb (or at least
> the bb axle if it's an old cup and cone unit).. Clamp the frame in a vise
> (clamping the lower part of the BB or bb cup) with brass jaw protectors and
> gently bend the stays in or out using the Campy straight edge to determine
> how far each side is progressing. Lay the straight edge along the face of
> the BB or BB cup and up inside the dropout. Measure the gap between the
> straight edge and the inner dropout face
> Finish up the job with Campy H tools to align the dropouts themselves.
>
> Dale Brown
> cycles de ORO, Inc.
> 1410 Mill Street
> Greensboro, North Carolina
> USA 27408
> 336-274-5959
> Fax 336-274-6360
> <A HREF="http://www.cyclesdeoro.com">cyclesdeORO.com</A>
> <A HREF="http://www.classicrendezvous.com/main.htm">Classic Rendezvous</A>