In a message dated 10/14/02 12:31:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, velo531@hotmail.com writes:
<< A string can also be used, tied to each rear fork end and looped around the head tube. Make sure the string leave the fork ends symmetrically. Then measure the gap between the string and seat tube on each side. I use a caliper to measure. It is surprisingly accurate. It is also shocking how poor the alignment is on many frames.
These two methods have slightly different datums for alignment. The straight
edge method aligns to the BB shell and should optimize the chainline. The
string method aligns to the head and set tube and is an estimate (about
three
steps removed) of alignment to the plane formed by the centers of those
tubes. If both methods don't agree you've got some bigger problems. Some of
the most chronically baffling shifting problems turn out to be BB shells
that
are askew.
>>
The best solution is to find someone with a genuine alignment table. Joe may
be good with the string method but I have had bad results with it. There is
no substitute for a proper fixture if you want it really straight. BTW, I've
been recommending taking the Montelaticis to no more than 126. It was
commonly done in the day. 130 is a bit of a stretch. Yes, it's doable, but
why? If you want 130, there are plenty of modern frames built that way. The
Montes are classics. Would you take a 1965 Cinelli and stretch it to 130? You
could, but why?
Stevan Thomas
Alameda, CA