Re: [CR] Tying and soldering spokes

(Example: Component Manufacturers:Cinelli)

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 17:17:10 -0700
From: "Bill Bryant" <Bill_Bryant@prodigy.net>
To: REClassicBikes@aol.com
Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR] Tying and soldering spokes
References: <18d.7e8972b.2a12c3ee@aol.com>


I've tied and soldered ~a lot~ of wheels over the last 25 years, too many to count. I was trained by Spence Wolfe and still follow his techniques and use the materials he liked best. Haven't found anything better even though I've looked around at alternatives.

Tying and soldering strengthens a bicycle wheel: probably a good thing for an asymmetrical rear wheel that propels the rider, probably not needed for a symmetrical front wheel, especially since its main job is absorbing bumps that could affect steering (track racing or some tandem applications excepted).

Though tying and soldering is often thought of as being something only needed on older rims which were softer than today's rims, it still is useful in this modern age since there is so much dish on rear wheels nowadays. And since so many riders want the least possible wheel weight, using a few less spokes that are tied and soldered will mean they last longer than not. But tying and soldering can't be mass-produced, nor done by the hoards of inexperienced doofusses (sp?) that work in too many LBSs these days, so it is largely a forgotten process. A pity, really, as it really does a great job improving a wheel's performance and longevity.

It is also very useful for track wheels when swooping up and down the banking as this creates side loads not generally encountered in road usage. For track racers there is also the chance that someone's pedal, or in criteriums, rear quick-release lever will inadvertently end up in your front wheel. Tying and soldering can sometimes keep things together long enough to get to the sidelines in one piece instead of having the wheel collapse upon contact with the errant pedal. It is also very good for heavily loaded wheels for big riders, tourists, tandems, etc. Tying and soldering won't work miracles and turn a crappy wheel into a "keeper", but it will make a well-built wheel last longer and perform better. So, you need to start with a good wheel in the first place if you want the best results.

As to doing it yourself, if you've never done it before, it is probably best to practice many times before you apply it to the special project you want to show off at the concours. It is an art not easily mastered. Overall, I know of no short cuts in this learning process, practice will make perfect. The specific technique of winding the wire and how you use the heat are important. Watch out for making "cold" joints where the solder doesn't adhere to the spokes properly--your choice of wire, solder, flux, and heat source will be very helpful on this part. Simichome or something similar will polish the joints nicely (but they will need re-polishing from time to time if you care about a show-room appearance.) Gerd Schraner's "The Art of Wheelbuilding" gives a good example of how to do a proper job of tying and soldering wheels, but it is still not for the novice, IMHO. Having conducted experiments on how many times to wind the wire around the spokes and in what directions, I have a minor disagreement with him on how he does his wire winding, but that's where the "art" part comes in. But overall, his instructions are as good as I have seen on this subject. Have some fun discovering what works best for you. Do some test joints and then tear them apart to see how good a job you did. When you start hitting a homer with each test joint, then try it on some real wheels.

Good luck on your project, Bill Bryant Santa Cruz, California

REClassicBikes@aol.com wrote:
>
> Does any one on the list have experience of tying spokes, as I would like to
> hear about it before I try and do my new grass wheels?
>
> Regards
> Martin Coopland