> Chris is wholly correct in this case, as any threads
> extending past the end
> of the nipple will guarantee that you do not have
> the fullest contact
> between the nipple and the spoke threads. Nipples
> generally have threaded
> sections that are longer than the threaded parts of
> the spokes,
*******
'generally', except when they're not.
so you want
> to ensure that every thread of the spoke is fully
> engaged with a threaded
> part of the nipple. Any part that extends past the
> end of the nipple is
> therefore not engaged and therefore lessens the
> contact surface. It could
> even be argued that in the case of nipples that have
> a screwdriver groove,
> the threads corresponding to the groove should also
> be avoided as they are
> not complete.
***
I've never seen spokes rip the threads out of
more-or-less fully-engaged nipples.
I can't *count* the number of times I've seen heads
break off of nipples that weren't threaded far enough,
with the net effect duplicating that of a broken spoke
(though a lot easier to remedy on the road if you have spare nipples).
Remember, spokes are generally
> available in 2 mm increments,
> so there is no need to err period!
*******
if you're repairing/refurbishing a 'classic' (or just
plain old) bike, you may find that such was not always
the case, that even stock wheels may not have been built with optimal length spokes (not even to mention subsequent repairs with whatever may have been on hand).
Sutherland's used
> to have a very complete
> spoke length chart that could be consulted for spoke
> length of virtually any
> imaginable rim/spoke/hub/spoking pattern
*******
yeah, that's great if you're using only
hubs/rims/lacing
available back then but there have been a few 'twists'
(not to mention straight-pulls, deep-aeros, and
big-ass
hub flanges) in the intervening nearly three decades.
> combination. That is the most used
> part of my 1974 Sutherland's guide.
***
...mine, too, but sometimes sutherland's lies.
bruce BW urbana, IL
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