Hi Don,
I respectfully differ from some of the other responses you've received so far. My question is - why don't you want to cold set the frame? It's not hard. It does no damage. It can easily be returned to 120mm any time you want.
Steel is very resilient. It can be bent and re-bent many times and the amount of bend required to change a frame from 120 to 130 is very very slight due to the distance of the drop-outs from the point where the stays connect to the main triangle and the brake cross-bar.
Take a look at Sheldon Brown's article on the topic:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
I love vintage frames. I love the way they look, the way they ride and the craftsmanship of the better made ones. But I have mixed feelings about older drive-trains. I love their look, but am less enamored with their ride. So I have spread my favorite 1970's frame from 120 to 130 and installed modern 9spd equipment. I know that sacrilege might get me booted off this list (or at least eliminate any slight credibility I may have), but.... I love the results. That bike is my favorite ride. And, I know when the time comes to fully restore it, it can be easily returned to 120.
So I suggest not trying to cobble together a compromise when it's so easy to simply install the full modern system that is designed to work together.
Best Regards,
David (I know my $.02 is worth less than others because I have sooo much less experience, but I'm not shy) White Burlington, VT
Donald Gillies wrote:
>Hi,
>
>If I want to run a contemporary Chorus or Record drivetrain including
>hubs on a classic 1970's 120mm bike, is there any way to do this ?? I
>do not want to cold set my 120 mm frame to 126 mm. I have not looked
>closely at the newer 8-speed / 9-speed hub and don't even know if they
>have spacers (that could be thinned) or not.
>
>Thanx,
>
>- Don Gillies
>San Diego, CA