[CR]Now: removing Cinelli stem that is REALLY stuck.

(Example: Framebuilders:Brian Baylis)

Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 20:29:43 -0400
From: "HM & SS Sachs" <sachs@erols.com>
To: Fredrick Yavorsky <fred@twistcomm.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
References: <BB2E3376.AFC7%fred@twistcomm.com>
Subject: [CR]Now: removing Cinelli stem that is REALLY stuck.

great, Frederick: with respect to the frozen Cinelli stem, here's what I would do. I'm assuming that you have an aluminum Cinelli 1A or later, eh? These are available, and not expensive if you want a "rider" condition as opposed to NOS.

I'd drill out the head of the binder bolt stem. A 9/32" drill will eat out all the meat, and needs to go in exactly 7 mm, judging from the one I just checked (later 6 mm head, not the early 7mm). Once you have done that, a center punch attacking through the center of the drill hole should punch out the expander cone. If you're lucky, you didn't tear up the stem, either, and now have the simpler problem of freeing the stem from the steerer tube.

harvey sachs mcLean va

(I haven't actually had to do this, but it seems safer than cutting out a section of the quill to free the binder, and then having no purchase to work on removing the stem.)

Fredrick Yavorsky wrote:
>Thanks for all the feedback on the 16mm Zeus crank bolts. Taking Harvey's
>suggestion, I went to the local auto parts store, bought a socket for $2.98
>and the after a few minutes on the bench grinder made my very own thin-wall
>Zeus crank bolt socketĀ®. Cranks are off! Next comes the bottom bracket.
>
>I didn't get any suggestions on the frozen Cinelli stem with the stripped
>out binder bolt, though. (I turned the fork upside down on the stand and
>filled the inside with a rust-remover type liquid for an hour. The parts
>store didn't stock Kroil.) Should I attempt to drill out the top of the
>bolt? Dremel? Thoughts?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Fred Yavorsky
>Jenkintown, PA
>
>
>
>
>>In my experience, most 5/8 sockets fit 16 mm, if you can't get a 5/8 easily
>>in Jenkintown :-). Get a cheapo, preferably 16, and grind the outside to fit,
>>with a handy little bench grinder. Doesn't have to be perfect or pretty. Then
>>you can use the 16s over, or use campy-type 15s. I've never seen a crank bolt
>>that didn't use the same threads.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>harvey sachs
>>mcLean va
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>>Fred, Zeus did use a standard Campy 22mm crank extractor. I'm pretty sure
>>I've gotten Zeus 16mm bolts out with the Stronglight socket you speak of,
>>though it is a very tight fit. The problem was they used the 22mm extractor
>>thread, so there was no more room than on a Campy crank, but they put a 16mm
>>bolt in that same space instead of a 15mm like Campy. Sutherland's speaks
>>of a Zeus tool for these crank bolts, but I've never seen one. I've also
>>heard that one can buy thin-walled sockets, though I don't know how hard
>>these are to find.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Jerry Moos
>>Houston, TX
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>>I had this same problem with my '78 Zeus Criterium. At one time I lived
>>within range of a now deceased bike shop in Albuquerque that was a major
>>Zeus seller in its day. According to the owner, the crank bolt takes a
>>special thin wall Zeus tool. It was designed like this so as to forgo the
>>need for crank bolt covers to keep out dirt.
>>
>>Tom C
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>16mm Zeus.........................crank arm bolt wrench!..................In
>>stock.....Go to ''NEW ARRIVALS!''
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>BC
>>Baron C.................And the gang!!
>>Renaissance cycles,
>>Eindhoven Holland.