Is there any major advantage in using shellac over the bar tape, as opposed to other surface coatings? I have some high grade polyurethane that was in the shop and never being used, so it went on instead of shellac. The results seem quite acceptable to me. Probably it will start to flake off at some future time, where the shellac will just wear thin?
Dennis Young Immediately deleting all the hassleing at the CR site these days, in Hotaka, Japan
> << As an antique dealer and restorer and collector shellac and I go way
> back. One tip not often given is this. Buy it in the smallest amounts
> available, use it and throw it away. Buy new for the next project...it
> is very inexpensive. Shellac is anhydrous and will draw moisture from
> the air. If this happens to your stash of it your next application of
> it will have a white, cloudy 'bloom'. This usually means stripping it
> off with alcohol and starting over. Pure frustration! >>
>
> Good advice! Also not a good idea to do your shellacing on a humid day (if
> you live in Georgia that leaves you maybe a week in February...) as it will
> occasionally draw moisture out of the air and cloud up. Another tip if you
> are
> looking for the prettiest, clearest finish, make sure you get DEWAXED
> shellac... it has fewer suspended solids.
>
> Also, be aware that shellac comes in different colors, from the palest hint
> of amber to the color of root beer. Though there are many varieties, the most
> common I've seen (from light to dark) are: clear, super blond, blond, orange,
> buttonlac, seedlac, ruby, and garnet. (I think the Zinser Bullseye SealCoat
> premixed that is available in most hardware stores is super blond).
>
> Bob Hovey
> Columbus, GA