Re: [CR]Self-Tapping Rivets

(Example: Framebuilders:Norman Taylor)

From: "Stephen Barner" <steve@sburl.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <CATFOODYSTzeCs6CGFv00003284@catfood.nt.phred.org>
Subject: Re: [CR]Self-Tapping Rivets
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 18:14:48 -0500


Here's another trick for Raleigh headbadges, though not one a professional painter like Brian would likely use. Remove the original rivets by grinding off the part that sticks out inside the headtube and then push the remaining part out from the inside. Put a piece of tape over the rivet on the outside so that you don't lose it when it comes out.

When reinstalling the badge, put a little glue on the back of the badge to hold it in place and a very small amount on the outside of the rivet shaft. Carefully tap the rivet back in place. The badge is now glued on, but looks like it is held in place with the original rivets. If the bike had the brass rivets, you can tap a small tapered drift into the hole of the rivet to enlarge it, providing some mechanical strength to the connection.

Steve Barner, liking to keep things looking as original as possible, Bolton, Vermont


----- Original Message -----


> Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 22:00:57 GMT
> From: brianbaylis@juno.com
> To: raleighpro@dejazzd.com
> Cc: gpit@ix.netcom.com
> Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Self-Tapping Rivets
>
> Pete,
>
> What I do for Raleighs is take the proper size pop rivet for the Raleigh hole and grind down the OD of the flange of the rivet to a size more like the original one. It can be reshaped and thinned at the edges with little effort. I normally use an AL rivet, but SS are available also. Ideal would be a brass head rivet. Anyone have or know of such a thing? I'd like to have a bunch of those. I'm sure my Raleigh customers would like it too.
>
> Brian Baylis
> La Mesa, CA