Re: [CR]WTB: Lt. Blue Cloth Tape

(Example: Production Builders:Peugeot)

From: "Dave Abraham" <dave@hokiespokes.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <CATFOODmRf6Ci6nx8dy000007ba@catfood.nt.phred.org>
Subject: Re: [CR]WTB: Lt. Blue Cloth Tape
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 10:52:28 -0500


Mike,

I have CatEye NOS...

thanx,

Dave Abraham New Wheel ~ Hokie Spokes http://www.hokiespokes.com Beautiful SW VA voice: (540) 552-7765 (or) 731-1211 FAX: 552-7768 (or) 731-0666 "Treating every bike like our own.."

Subject: [CR]WTB: Lt. Blue Cloth Tape Message-ID: <11.24594ce5.2d84059c@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 15

Hi all,

Anybody got some spare rolls of tresso* lt blue? Also, what color tape and shellac combo should I use to match by brown B17 saddle???

Thanks.

Mike Wilkinson
Castle Rock, CO


----- Original Message -----
From: classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 5:43 AM
Subject: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 15, Issue 61



> Send Classicrendezvous mailing list submissions to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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>
> CR
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Foil vs Decal (Chuck Schmidt)
> 2. Re: Which Campagnolo Decal is Correct? (Eric Elman)
> 3. Re: Which Campagnolo Decal is Correct? (Chuck Schmidt)
> 4. Silca Pumps revisited
> 5. Re: CLB-2 Brake Levers? THANKS MERCI (r cielec)
> 6. Regina corncob for sale
> 7. Ebay Outing:50's BIANCHI PARIS-ROUBAIX w/ Prototype Der.
> (dave martinez)
> 8. Re: Ebay Outing:50's BIANCHI w/ Prototype ? Der.
> 9. Re: Ebay Outing:50's BIANCHI PARIS-ROUBAIX w/ Prototype Der.
> 10. ZENTRA TAVANNES Taschenuhr Item number: 2695931429
> (Charles Nighbor)
> 11. now: D/A lever hoods (HM & SS Sachs)
> 12. Cinelli Unicantior Saddles and Silca Pista Pumps for sale
> (Bradley Woehl)
> 13. Archive Access Denied again (Amir Avitzur)
> 14. Re: Silca Pumps revisited (Amir Avitzur)
> 15. WTB: Lt. Blue Cloth Tape
> 16. RE: RE: Internally routed rear brake cable (Mick Butler)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 13:13:46 -0700
> From: Chuck Schmidt <chuckschmidt@earthlink.net>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Foil vs Decal
> Message-ID: <405219ED.1AFA1923@earthlink.net>
> References: <98.596b717.2d83247d@aol.com> <p06020469bc77ae6e882d@[10.0.1.9]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: chuckschmidt@earthlink.net
> Message: 1
>
>
> > George elanjian asked:
> >
> > >What's the difference between the two -- Is one better than the other? What
> > >was the reasoning behind the foil? Cosmetic or cost?
>
> Reasoning behind the foil?
>
> Ink on foil stickers had an element of novelty when first introduced
> (late 50s early 60s ?) just as derailleurs made of Delrin® plastic were
> "newer than new" when first introduced. It was only later that the
> problems with both surfaced and at that point they were viewed with contempt.
>
> Chuck Schmidt
> South Pasadena, Southern California
>
> .
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 16:54:03 -0500
> From: "Eric Elman" <tr4play@cox.net>
> To: "Steve Neago" <questor@cinci.rr.com>,
> <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Which Campagnolo Decal is Correct?
> Message-ID: <001401c4087c$88b2e990$764ee544@elman1>
> References: <d8.57067b8.2d81dfe7@aol.com>
> <011d01c4084b$15033e40$cbb71b18@test1>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="UTF-8"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 2
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I'm looking for the decal to go on a 1967/68 Geoffrey Butler that was all
> Campagnolo Record/NR equiped except the brakes. Does that help at all?
> The reply's have been about 50/50 as to using the oval blue/yellow vs the
> globe with gold Campagnolo across it.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Eric
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Neago" <questor@cinci.rr.com>
> To: "Eric Elman" <tr4play@cox.net>; <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 11:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [CR]Which Campagnolo Decal is Correct?
>
>
> > Dale's website pics are not complete on Campy decals... there may be
> another
> > "Groupo" decal that you want to use, but what frameset are you trying to
> put
> > this on?
> >
> > Regards, Steve Neago
> > Cincinnati, OH
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Eric Elman" <tr4play@cox.net>
> > To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> > Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 10:27 PM
> > Subject: [CR]Which Campagnolo Decal is Correct?
> >
> >
> > > Looking for some advice on which Campagnolo decal would be appropriate
> for
> > a
> > > 1967/68 bike that was obviously Campagnolo equipped. Dale has some pics
> > at
> > > the link below. Is any one of these correct for my time frame? If not,
> > > please point me to a picture somewhere.
> > >
> > > http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/Campagnolo/Campy_main.htm
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Eric Elman
> > > Somers, CT
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:25:21 -0700
> From: Chuck Schmidt <chuckschmidt@earthlink.net>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Which Campagnolo Decal is Correct?
> Message-ID: <40522ABF.8368C70F@earthlink.net>
> References: <d8.57067b8.2d81dfe7@aol.com>
> <011d01c4084b$15033e40$cbb71b18@test1>
> <001401c4087c$88b2e990$764ee544@elman1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: chuckschmidt@earthlink.net
> Message: 3
>
> Eric Elman wrote:
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > I'm looking for the decal to go on a 1967/68 Geoffrey Butler that was all
> > Campagnolo Record/NR equiped except the brakes. Does that help at all?
> > The reply's have been about 50/50 as to using the oval blue/yellow vs the
> > globe with gold Campagnolo across it.
>
>
> Degrees of correctness... The oval blue/yellow is factory correct (and
> would be my choice for your bike) and the globe with the gold
> "Campagnolo" across it is aftermarket (not "factory made" as pointed out
> by Steven Maasland), but of the period.
>
> Comes down to your choice (as always) and you can pull it off at a later
> date if you change your mind.
>
> Chuck Schmidt
> South Pasadena, Southern California
>
> .
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 18:14:46 -0500
> From: <raleighpro@dejazzd.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Silca Pumps revisited
> Message-ID: <20040312231446.FLTO7250.de-fe01.dejazzd.com@de-fe01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 4
>
> Just when you thought this had gone away......
> Found this on Spectrum Cycles site:
> http://www.spectrum-cycles.com/63.htm
>
> How to use a Silca frame pump.
> Trying to teach people how to use a Silca frame pump sounds pretty silly, but there are good reasons. Let's walk through the logic.
> * A frame pump is intended to get you home after a flat tire and to beat off dogs, not to pump up your tires day after day. A floor pump is designed for that purpose.
> * Once you have fixed your flat tire, getting back on the road quickly is paramount, dynamiting your tire up to eight or nine atmospheres is not as critical as some would make it out to be.
> * Silca frame pumps used properly will enable you to get your repaired tire up to riding pressure (6-8 bar.) faster than any other frame pump. Because of the larger shaft diameter, Silca pumps give more pressure per pump than the others.
> * Of all the full length frame pumps, the Silca is the lightest. (the collapsible frame pumps are really cool but they are only useful as devices for forcing you to take a long rest during your rides.)
>
> Silca pumps come with four different types of heads. They all work the same, but the sealing grommets are only adjustable on some of them. The sealing grommet is the rubber donut which the tire valve goes through in the pump head. At this time, the most common head is a dual finger type made by Silca shaped somewhat like the old Campy steel heads. Although the fingers tend to break pretty easily, the head actually works quite well. This type of head uses a slotted screw at the back end of the head to adjust the seal grommet. The older Silca made heads did not have adjustable grommets. The Campy steel heads were adjusted by tightening the screw-on grommet retaining cover. I say "were" because Campy has not marketed their steel heads for years and the supply has dried up. If you have one or can get one, DO IT! and sell it to me. They were the best.
>
> There are a few tricks which one must use while pumping tires with Silca pumps. The most important thing to understand is that presta valves can be bent or broken quite easily and one must take steps to avoid doing so. Get into the habit of pumping your tires up by only holding the pump, NOT by holding the wheel or tire. The easiest way to do this is to pump up the tire with the wheel off the bike. Work the pump head onto the valve stem by moving the pump shaft back and forth while pressing the head onto the valve. At all times, the head must be aligned with the valve. If there is any pressure still in the tire, you must prevent the pump handle from being forced out of the end of the pump by the tire pressure. To do so, hold the handle and pump shaft tightly together in one hand and, make sure that the head is perfectly aligned with the valve as you press the head onto the valve. Once the head is well seated on the valve, grasp the head and pump end by wrapping your index finger around the end of the head and holding the shaft tightly with the rest of your hand. Lift the wheel off the ground with the pump, keeping the head and valve at 12:00 o'clock. Always keep the head and valve aligned with each other so that the valve has no bending pressure on it.
>
> Start pumping up your tire. Be sure to not pull the handle too far back. You can pull it right out of the shaft if you try. Once the tire pressure begins to climb, you will find it more difficult to pump. To get that last atmosphere or so in, you will want to use leverage to your advantage. For the easy part of the pumping, most people will have had the pump shaft running from side to side around waist level. When the pumping gets more difficult, you will want to end each stroke with the pump shaft almost perpendicular from your waist with the head end away from your belly. That way, you can pull the head end of the pump straight in while holding the handle end in at your belly. Thus, while the pumping is the most difficult, you will have the most leverage. This may sound awkward, but once you get the rhythm, it is very efficient and quick. With a bit of practice, you will be able to easily reach 7 atmospheres (about 100 lbs.) quite quickly.
>
> Once you have pumped up your tire, the last trick is removing the pump without harming either the pump or tire valve. Place the wheel back on the ground with the valve still at12:00 o'clock. Hold the pump handle in one hand and strike straight down on the pump shaft with you fist as close to the head as possible. It should pop right off.
>
> Things to remember:
> * A frame pump is to get you home, not for day to day use.
> * Always keep the head aligned with the tire valve.
> * Don't pull the pump handle out of the shaft.
> * Never apply any lateral or torsional force to the tire valve.
> * Pop the head off when you are done, don't wiggle it off.
> * Send me all your extra Campy steel heads, prepaid shipping.
>
>
> Pete Geurds
> Douglassville, PA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 15:19:17 -0800 (PST)
> From: r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
> To: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]CLB-2 Brake Levers? THANKS MERCI
> Message-ID: <20040312231917.26187.qmail@web41007.mail.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <BC77195B.36867%elton@pope-lance.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 5
>
>
> THANKS TO EVERYONE
>
> Richard Cielec
>
> Chicago, Illinois
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 23:32:24 +0000
> From: themaaslands@comcast.net
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org (Classic Rendezvous)
> Subject: [CR]Regina corncob for sale
> Message-ID: <031220042332.27099.1652@comcast.net>
> Precedence: list
> Message: 6
>
> On Italian ebay, there is a Regina oro 5-cog 13-17 freewheel for sale http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3666339719
>
> Just what you need to test your knees.
>
> It looks nice on a show racing bike, but I wouldn't want to ride using it on most bikes.
>
> --
> Steven Maasland
> Moorestown, NJ
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 16:00:32 -0800 (PST)
> From: dave martinez <dmart84815@yahoo.com>
> To: CR List <ClassicRendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Ebay Outing:50's BIANCHI PARIS-ROUBAIX w/ Prototype Der.
> Message-ID: <20040313000032.20245.qmail@web41202.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 7
>
> Hello All,
>
> Check out the interesting 50's Bianchi Paris-Roubaix with the odd prototype Campagnolo derailleur.
> Ebay# 3665629482, not the seller, but I've bought from him before.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Martinez
> Fremont Ca
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 19:29:41 EST
> From: NortonMarg@aol.com
> To: dmart84815@yahoo.com, ClassicRendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Ebay Outing:50's BIANCHI w/ Prototype ? Der.
> Message-ID: <b6.29465aff.2d83aff5@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 8
>
> In a message dated 3/12/04 4:01:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> dmart84815@yahoo.com writes:
>
> > Check out the interesting 50's Bianchi Paris-Roubaix with the odd prototype
> > Campagnolo derailleur.
> > Ebay# 3665629482,
>
> http://ebay.com/<blah
>
> I don't think that's a prototype, I think it may be the last gasp, final
> version. It wouldn't make sense from a design/manufacturing point of view to go
> from a backwards pedaling two lever system, to a forward pedaling prototype one
> lever changer, and THEN produce a backward pedaling one lever system. I
> suspect it's a last ditch effort to make something that "at least" changes while
> pedaling forward, to stem the tide of riders changing to the forward pedaling
> Simplex, like Coppi did, while the Gran Sport was being readied for production.
> Perhaps Steven Maasland knows for sure?
> Stevan Thomas
> Alameda, CA
> cool chain retainer on the front.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 01:41:06 +0000
> From: themaaslands@comcast.net
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org (Classic Rendezvous)
> Subject: Re: [CR]Ebay Outing:50's BIANCHI PARIS-ROUBAIX w/ Prototype Der.
> Message-ID: <031320040141.22073.1e0c@comcast.net>
> Precedence: list
> Message: 9
>
> Dave outed the following auction
>
> > Check out the interesting 50's Bianchi Paris-Roubaix with the odd prototype
> > Campagnolo derailleur.
>
> http://ebay.com/<blah>
>
> This bike is an odd agglomeration of bits and pieces. While it has plenty of shine and sheen, it is not terribly original. The repaint has been quite well done, with a 'celeste' that closely ressembles those we have now become accustomed to. Most period bikes would have aged to a much lighter green (who knows what they looked like new?) The decals are however not the correct ones for the age of the shifter. By the time the lower reach PR shifter was brought out (right at the end of the life of the the PR in the mid-50's), the bikes were labeled as Bianchi Paris-Roubaix on the DT, not Bianchi as seen. The stem is also not correct for the vintage of the gear as it would have been a Bianchi branded alloy stem made by Ambrosio. The same for the bars. The brake calipers are the correct Universal model (mod.51) but are a later iteration thereof (either late 50's or early 60's.) In fact the brake caliper spring is held in place by a 'nub' on the back of the arms instead of by the spring bent around the arm as in the early 50's. The brake levers are also not original to the bike according to the description, as again here they would have been alloy and not steel. The crankset is missing the 'B' emblem caps on the BB axle and the blue chainring bolts. I can't comment on the hubs (they should have a script 'Bianchi' marking on them), pedals, rear brake or rims as they are not visible in the photos.
>
> --
> Steven Maasland
> Moorestown, NJ
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 18:20:01 -0800
> From: "Charles Nighbor" <cnighbor@pacbell.net>
> To: "Classic Rendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]ZENTRA TAVANNES Taschenuhr Item number: 2695931429
> Message-ID: <012701c408a1$b0979ee0$9255a640@cnighbor>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 10
>
>
> For use in time trails. By same seller of 50th Campagnolo Group.
> ZENTRA TAVANNES Taschenuhr Item number: 2695931429 =20
>
> Not the seller
> Charles nighbor
> Walnut Creek, CA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 21:21:16 -0500
> From: HM & SS Sachs <sachs@erols.com>
> To: jamel95@indy.net, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]now: D/A lever hoods
> Message-ID: <4052701C.7010408@erols.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 11
>
> Jim Lingenfelter seeks
>
> In order to bring two lugged steel frame bikes into ridable condition I am looking for the following items. Condition needs to be good to vg but doesn't have to be NIP/NOS. These bikes are riders. email me off list with description, condition and asking price.
>
> Dura Ace hoods, first gen sidepull (not triangle recently seen on CR) prefer gum color
> Cinelli H/B 64/40/42 mid 80's model and matching 120mm reach stem
>
> ++++++++++++++++
> The D/A hoods are esssentially extinct (I have been able to find no supplies, even with levers attached), but I have occasionally found 600 hoods that look the same. Good luck
>
> harvey sachs
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 19:53:00 -0800
> From: "Bradley Woehl" <bradley@americancyclery.com>
> To: <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Cinelli Unicantior Saddles and Silca Pista Pumps for sale
> Message-ID: <019801c408ae$af6db1f0$1cedfea9@XPEGGIE>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 12
>
> Hello CR listers:
>
> Own a piece of Italy for only $40
>
> Cinelli Unicanitor Saddles:
>
> The last of the flying C's.. Classic Italian Made Cinelli Unicanitor =
> saddles covered in Suede leather. This Cinelli Rilsan Unicanitor touring =
> model is padded for extra comfort. The Cinelli logo is on the back of =
> the seat between the two rails and on the right side. The seat rails are =
> steal. The plastic Unicanitor shell reads Cinelli Milano on the base. =
> This saddle is in the original packaging from Cinelli and says Cinelli =
> Milano on the clear bag with an Italian twist tie that reads Sigillo =
> Garanzio. If you don't like the padded suede cover rip it off and clean =
> off the excess glue and you have a Unicanitor track model. It says =
> Unicanitor Brevettata on the side under the padding. This padded Cinelli =
> Unicanitor is the last of the Cinelli Unicanitor saddles that we have. =
> Most are all black and we have a few in brown.=20
>
> $40 while supplies last
>
> Classic Silca PISTA floor pumps
>
> The original Italian made, Silca Pista road bike pump. This great pump =
> is the older style with the cast blue oval base and pressure gage at the =
> base. This has been the standard for bike shops and race teams for many =
> years. This pump includes the #24 bell shaped brass chuck which is the =
> best functioning pump head Silca ever made. This pump is fully =
> serviceable and will last you the rest of your cycling career. After a =
> number of years you can replace the hose, gaskets, leather washer check =
> valve. Most good bike shops have the parts, we do. This Ferarri Red pump =
> comes in the classic Tri color bag from Italy.
>
> $40 each.=20
>
> Modern Silca pumps cost $65 and are not as nice as the classic=20
>
> Most people on the CR list have at least one Silca pump.
>
> email to resrserve your saddle or pump
> Please call me on a weekday if you are interested in these.
> You can pay by CC or by check. =20
>
> Bradley Woehl
> American Cyclery
> San Francisco, CA 94117
> (415) 664-4545
> http://www.americancyclery.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 20:22:14 +0200
> From: "Amir Avitzur" <avitzur@013.net.il>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Archive Access Denied again
> Message-ID: <003601c4085e$f1e0b500$e685a652@ericaspc>
> References: <ehaeyrqgplahgpylcuk@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 13
>
> Help!
>
> I cannot gain access to entries in the archive.
>
> Whenever I try to read an archived entry I get an "access denied by access
> control list" notice.
>
> According to Alex this is caused by a configuration error on the client
> machine.
> According to Microsoft Support this is due to my dial-up set-up.
> My ISP's support staff, tried but was not able to recommend a working
> solution.
>
> Has anybody out there experienced this problem and found a solution?
>
> Amir
>
>
>
>
> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 6:17 AM
> Subject: [CR]Hey, dude, it's me ^_^ :P
>
>
> > The access is open !!!
> >
> > 50816 -- archive password
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 20:38:38 +0200
> From: "Amir Avitzur" <avitzur@013.net.il>
> To: <raleighpro@dejazzd.com>
> Cc: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Silca Pumps revisited
> Message-ID: <004f01c40861$3c63f450$e685a652@ericaspc>
> References: <20040312231446.FLTO7250.de-fe01.dejazzd.com@de-fe01>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 14
>
> Is there a source for those little blue leg covers (dare I say nipples) for
> steel campy silca pump heads.
> Mine dried up years ago.
>
> Amir
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <raleighpro@dejazzd.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 1:14 AM
> Subject: [CR]Silca Pumps revisited
>
>
> > Just when you thought this had gone away......
> > Found this on Spectrum Cycles site:
> > http://www.spectrum-cycles.com/63.htm
> >
> > How to use a Silca frame pump.
> > Trying to teach people how to use a Silca frame pump sounds pretty silly,
> but there are good reasons. Let's walk through the logic.
> > * A frame pump is intended to get you home after a flat tire and to beat
> off dogs, not to pump up your tires day after day. A floor pump is designed
> for that purpose.
> > * Once you have fixed your flat tire, getting back on the road quickly is
> paramount, dynamiting your tire up to eight or nine atmospheres is not as
> critical as some would make it out to be.
> > * Silca frame pumps used properly will enable you to get your repaired
> tire up to riding pressure (6-8 bar.) faster than any other frame pump.
> Because of the larger shaft diameter, Silca pumps give more pressure per
> pump than the others.
> > * Of all the full length frame pumps, the Silca is the lightest. (the
> collapsible frame pumps are really cool but they are only useful as devices
> for forcing you to take a long rest during your rides.)
> >
> > Silca pumps come with four different types of heads. They all work the
> same, but the sealing grommets are only adjustable on some of them. The
> sealing grommet is the rubber donut which the tire valve goes through in the
> pump head. At this time, the most common head is a dual finger type made by
> Silca shaped somewhat like the old Campy steel heads. Although the fingers
> tend to break pretty easily, the head actually works quite well. This type
> of head uses a slotted screw at the back end of the head to adjust the seal
> grommet. The older Silca made heads did not have adjustable grommets. The
> Campy steel heads were adjusted by tightening the screw-on grommet retaining
> cover. I say "were" because Campy has not marketed their steel heads for
> years and the supply has dried up. If you have one or can get one, DO IT!
> and sell it to me. They were the best.
> >
> > There are a few tricks which one must use while pumping tires with Silca
> pumps. The most important thing to understand is that presta valves can be
> bent or broken quite easily and one must take steps to avoid doing so. Get
> into the habit of pumping your tires up by only holding the pump, NOT by
> holding the wheel or tire. The easiest way to do this is to pump up the tire
> with the wheel off the bike. Work the pump head onto the valve stem by
> moving the pump shaft back and forth while pressing the head onto the valve.
> At all times, the head must be aligned with the valve. If there is any
> pressure still in the tire, you must prevent the pump handle from being
> forced out of the end of the pump by the tire pressure. To do so, hold the
> handle and pump shaft tightly together in one hand and, make sure that the
> head is perfectly aligned with the valve as you press the head onto the
> valve. Once the head is well seated on the valve, grasp the head and pump
> end by wrapping your index finger around the end of the head and holding the
> shaft tightly with the rest of your hand. Lift the wheel off the ground with
> the pump, keeping the head and valve at 12:00 o'clock. Always keep the head
> and valve aligned with each other so that the valve has no bending pressure
> on it.
> >
> > Start pumping up your tire. Be sure to not pull the handle too far back.
> You can pull it right out of the shaft if you try. Once the tire pressure
> begins to climb, you will find it more difficult to pump. To get that last
> atmosphere or so in, you will want to use leverage to your advantage. For
> the easy part of the pumping, most people will have had the pump shaft
> running from side to side around waist level. When the pumping gets more
> difficult, you will want to end each stroke with the pump shaft almost
> perpendicular from your waist with the head end away from your belly. That
> way, you can pull the head end of the pump straight in while holding the
> handle end in at your belly. Thus, while the pumping is the most difficult,
> you will have the most leverage. This may sound awkward, but once you get
> the rhythm, it is very efficient and quick. With a bit of practice, you will
> be able to easily reach 7 atmospheres (about 100 lbs.) quite quickly.
> >
> > Once you have pumped up your tire, the last trick is removing the pump
> without harming either the pump or tire valve. Place the wheel back on the
> ground with the valve still at12:00 o'clock. Hold the pump handle in one
> hand and strike straight down on the pump shaft with you fist as close to
> the head as possible. It should pop right off.
> >
> > Things to remember:
> > * A frame pump is to get you home, not for day to day use.
> > * Always keep the head aligned with the tire valve.
> > * Don't pull the pump handle out of the shaft.
> > * Never apply any lateral or torsional force to the tire valve.
> > * Pop the head off when you are done, don't wiggle it off.
> > * Send me all your extra Campy steel heads, prepaid shipping.
> >
> >
> > Pete Geurds
> > Douglassville, PA
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 01:35:08 EST
> From: M4Campy@aol.com
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]WTB: Lt. Blue Cloth Tape
> Message-ID: <11.24594ce5.2d84059c@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 15
>
> Hi all,
>
> Anybody got some spare rolls of tresso* lt blue? Also, what color tape and
> shellac combo should I use to match by brown B17 saddle???
>
> Thanks.
>
> Mike Wilkinson
> Castle Rock, CO
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 10:33:51 +0000
> From: "Mick Butler" <pariscyclesuk@hotmail.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: RE: [CR]RE: Internally routed rear brake cable
> Message-ID: <LAW11-F61K5LqN33HFn000000a7@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 16
>
>
> Regarding this form of cable routing. I have seen an early Rover bicycle
> circa 1903 belonging to Tony Bush S.V.C.C & F.C.O.T which has the rear hub
> gear operating cable internally routed through the top tube.
> On the lightweight scene Harry Rensch used this method on some of his models
> from 1936 onwards. In a post war 1948 film called "A Boy a Girl and a Bike"
> on which Harry was the cycling advisor, there are several mentions on this
> type of cable routing and is part of the films plot.
> Armstrong at the 1948 Earls Court cycling show exhibited a model with
> internally routed brake and gear cables.
>
>
> Best wishes and be lucky. Michael Butler Huntingdon UK.
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: Toni.Theilmeier@t-online.de (toni theilmeier)
> >Reply-To: 520061944949-0001@T-Online.de
> >To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> >Subject: [CR]RE: Internally routed rear brake cable
> >Date: 12 Mar 2004 18:34 GMT
> >
> >My c1936 Granby Taperlight has got one.
> >
> >Toni Theilmeier, Belm, Germany.
> >_______________________________________________
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> It's fast, it's easy and it's free. Get MSN Messenger today!
> http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger
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> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> End of Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 15, Issue 61
> *************************************************