Miele made some tri bikes in the early 80's with wishbone stays. Does that count? The wishbone stays were a Harry Havnoovian (from philiadelphia tho) trademark build if I recall. Cinelli Laser? Zunow from Japan made some wishbone stay bikes. real beauties.
Tom Martin
Oakland Ca
> Does anyone remember a European (Italian?) frame builder from the late
> 1980's that built steel frames with a wishbone seat stay? Some of the
> interesting features of the frames were ultra short chain stays that
> required an indentation in the seat tube, also, the seat stay above the
> brake bridge was made of a large (1-plus inch) diameter tube. Mondonico
> is the only frame builder that I can find that used a wishbone on steel
> frames, but his design differs substantially from the frame builder that
> I remember.
>
> Anyone remember?
>
> Tucker Bunch, Houston Tx.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org
> [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of
> classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 8:03 PM
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 20, Issue 7
>
>
> Send Classicrendezvous mailing list submissions to
> classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://www.bikelist.org/
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org
>
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
> "Re: Contents of Classicrendezvous digest..."
>
>
> CR
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. installing gum hoods (Jay Sexton)
> 2. Gipiemme-Simplex? (r cielec)
> 3. Re: Gipiemme-Simplex? (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)
> 4. Re: installing gum hoods (WD Baseley)
> 5. A nice Tesch on Ebay (Charles Nighbor)
> 6. Taurea bicycles (Aldo Ross)
> 7. Wheel swap wanted (Ken Sanford)
> 8. Re: Lubricant for Gum Hoods? (Joe Bender-Zanoni)
> 9. Re Installing Campy hoods.
> 10. Was DeRosa!/C.Andrews and now childish behaviour (brucerobbins)
> 11. Claud Butlers Methods of Frame Construction (Michael Butler)
> 12. Hercules "Herailleur" info sought! (Paul Williams)
> 13. Pic of the Day 3rd August - Demi-Fond 1923 (Aldo Ross)
> 14. Re: Lubricant for Gum Hoods? (cmontgomery)
> 15.
> So ... My Aussie Speedwell is old .... perhaps older than some
> of
> you ;-) (Professore di Pimpissimo)
> 16. '70s ARGOS questions... (Duane Kennard)
> 17. Re: Lubricant for Gum Hoods? (sam Lingo)
> 18. Re: TTT Stem Size (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 12:23:26 -0700
> From: Jay Sexton <jvs@sonic.net>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]installing gum hoods
> Message-ID: <410E94AE.1060709@sonic.net>
> In-Reply-To: <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org>
> References: <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 1
>
> I have to weigh in on this. I say no no no to brake fluid. Here's my
> .01 cent.
>
> Quite by accident, when washing a set of hoods which were on levers, the
> warm water loosened them up enough that they slid off the levers quite
> nicely, even though I didn't want to take them off. As an experiment, I
> took the hoods off of the levers and ran cold water over them to cool
> them down. Then, I gave 'em a warm water dose to soften them up, slid
> them back on the levers slick as you know what, let them cool, and
> voila! No stretching, tearing, or anxiety that I WOULD tear them as I
> installed them. And these were 20 year old hoods. So, my
> suggestion....wet and warm. And no petrochemicals to break down the
> hoods. Try it and let me know if it works for you. Jay Sexton
> Sebastopol, CA
>
>
>
>
>
> Brake fluid. Been keeping my ol gummies alive for years with just a very
> thin coating of the stuff. Desert dryness and UV does a number on them
> here.
>
> Craig Montgomery in Tucson
>
>
> From: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
>
> >> Ahoy !
> >> OK, I admit, a very uptight question.
> >> As many modern dishwashing soaps and laundry detergents are
> >> formulated to
> >
> >
> disintergrate organic matter, and many oils and greases are formulated
> to resist disintegration, what are some good lubricants to assist with
> safely installing gum hoods onto brake levers?
>
> >> I was going to use basic Castille bath soap.
> >> In a lather,
> >> Richard Cielec
> >> Chicago, Illinois
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 12:38:07 -0700 (PDT)
> From: r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Gipiemme-Simplex?
> Message-ID: <20040802193807.14736.qmail@web52001.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 2
>
> Ahoy!
> I assume this is an IT query. Please accept my apology if not. I have
> some front and rear mechs. with Gipiemme livery but are clearly by
> casting, stampings and such Simplex SLJ and something else which I
> cannot recall at the moment. Does anyone know for certain when Gipiemme
> "partnered" with Simplex? Thanks. Richard Cielec Chicago, Illinois
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 12:55:53 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> To: r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Gipiemme-Simplex?
> Message-ID: <20040802195553.11664.qmail@web81007.mail.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <20040802193807.14736.qmail@web52001.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 3
>
> In the 80's, but I don't know exactly how long or what years. Wasn't
> much partnering, Gipiemme just slapped their name on Simplex stuff and
> sold it. Let them offer a complete gruppo I guess.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Houston, TX
>
> r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Ahoy!
> I assume this is an IT query. Please accept my apology if not. I have
> some front and rear mechs. with Gipiemme livery but are clearly by
> casting, stampings and such Simplex SLJ and something else which I
> cannot recall at the moment. Does anyone know for certain when Gipiemme
> "partnered" with Simplex? Thanks. Richard Cielec Chicago, Illinois
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 15:57:59 -0400
> From: WD Baseley <wdb@pobox.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]installing gum hoods
> Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.2.20040802153502.05524178@pop.mindspring.com>
> In-Reply-To: <410E94AE.1060709@sonic.net>
> References: <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org>
> <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 4
>
> At 12:23 PM 8/2/2004 -0700, Jay Sexton ushered forth:
> > I say no no no to brake fluid.
>
> I would have to agree, not because of what it might do to the hoods but
> because of what it would do to just about every other part of the
> bike. Brake fluid is nasty stuff. Definitely keep it far away from any
>
> painted surface!
>
> > As an experiment, I took the hoods off of the levers and ran cold
> > water
> > over them to cool them down. Then, I gave 'em a warm water dose to
> > soften them up, slid them back on the levers slick as you know what,
> let
> > them cool, and voila!
>
> This is a great technique that works well for a wide variety of rubber
> parts. I used to use this method to install windshields in cars back
> when
> they had rubber seals holding them in.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Baseley in sunny, muggy Berks County PA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 13:24:14 -0700
> From: "Charles Nighbor" <cnighbor@pacbell.net>
> To: "Classic Rendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]A nice Tesch on Ebay
> Message-ID: <000701c478ce$af82d680$690bad40@cnighbor>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 5
>
> 83 2/2 JOHN HOWARD ROAD BIKE SHIMANO CAMPAGNOLO 57CM
> HAND BUILT by DAVID TESCH, COLUMBUS Item number: 3692051762=20
>
> Not the seller
> Charles Nighbor
> in Walnut Creek, Ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:29:35 -0400
> From: "Aldo Ross" <aldoross4@siscom.net>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Taurea bicycles
> Message-ID: <000801c478cf$77ce7900$6cf9fea9@j4g1x1>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 6
>
> Did someone on the list buy the Taurea bike on eBay from Alesandro Nati
> = in Italy?
>
> Aldo Ross
> Blue Ball, Ohio
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:54:35 -0400
> From: "Ken Sanford" <kanford@comcast.net>
> To: <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Wheel swap wanted
> Message-ID: <017901c478d2$eba52330$6401a8c0@D5FSLZ21>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 7
>
> Greeting
>
> I recently acquired a 70's Cinelli SC that came with Campy HF clincher =
> wheels.
>
> As I prefer sewups, was wondering in anyone might be willing to swap a =
> similar sewup pair. These wheels as described in auction - ebay item =
> 3684841698
>
> Wheels: Rims are NOS alloy, Mavic MA 2, just laced onto Campagnolo hubs.
> =
>
>
> Hubs: Campagnolo Hi-flange. (32H front, 36H rear)
>
> Tires: Vittoria Competition, Kevlar. 700 x 22C All black
>
> These have the flat skewers and are probably of mid-70's vintage. I can
> = take jpegs if necessary. Some slight pitting on hub faces. Bearings
> = feel good.
>
> please contact me off list. A local or semi-local swap preferred.
>
> thanks
>
> Ken Sanford
>
> Kensington, MD
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 17:22:55 -0400
> From: Joe Bender-Zanoni <joebz@optonline.net>
> To: cmontgomery <cmontgomery15@cox.net>,
> r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods?
> Message-ID: <002301c4780d$b6142ce0$6400a8c0@jfbender>
> References: <20040802012004.34201.qmail@web52003.mail.yahoo.com>
> <003f01c47859$2ee2e260$d18fe744@D687QV01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
> Precedence: list
> Message: 8
>
> Now this really makes sense. Brake fluid has to be compatible with at
> least synthetic rubber seals. Anyone know more? And also what type brake
> fluid?
>
> Joe Bender-Zanoni
> Great Notch, NJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cmontgomery" <cmontgomery15@cox.net>
> To: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>; <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 2:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods?
>
>
> > Brake fluid. Been keeping my ol gummies alive for years with just a
> > very thin coating of the stuff. Desert dryness and UV does a number on
>
> > them
> here.
> >
> > Craig Montgomery in Tucson
> >
> >
> > From: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
> >
> > > Ahoy !
> > > OK, I admit, a very uptight question.
> > > As many modern dishwashing soaps and laundry detergents are
> > > formulated
> to
> > disintergrate organic matter, and many oils and greases are formulated
>
> > to resist disintegration, what are some good lubricants to assist with
>
> > safely installing gum hoods onto brake levers?
> > > I was going to use basic Castille bath soap.
> > > In a lather,
> > > Richard Cielec
> > > Chicago, Illinois
> >
> > _______________________________________________
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:31:07 EDT
> From: CYDYN@aol.com
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Re Installing Campy hoods.
> Message-ID: <1df.26d7f31b.2e400c9b@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 9
>
> For years, I've found Lemon pledge to be a great asset for intalling gum
>
> hoods. Spraying the inside of the hood and the outside surface of the
> brake lever
> makes installation quick and easy. Warming up the hood in warm water
> helps
> make it more pliable also. I've installed hundreds of pairs with this
> method
> through the years and never had one tear.
>
> Paul Brown
> Cycle Dynamics
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 22:38:01 +0100
> From: "brucerobbins" <brucerobbins@supanet.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Was DeRosa!/C.Andrews and now childish behaviour
> Message-ID: <000f01c478d8$fce0da80$cbb528d5@Robbocomp>
> References: <CATFOODv9aSaBbYqyd000004a26@catfood.nt.phred.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 10
>
>
> > From: Harris <bianchipan@yahoo.com>
> What makes any one individual's choice more or less sane than the next
> guy/girl?I myself do not care for a Herse,but I admire them and all
> other bikes built with passion.But that is just me.I was taught as a
> child,"If you have nothing nice to say,then I suggest you say nothing at
> all".Good advice I think,and it should apply here.
>
> Harris,
>
> That's good advice for a child but we're all grown-ups on this list.
> Much of life revolves around opinions whether it be politics, the arts,
> or whatever. As I said earlier, I don't like Italian bikes (I'll make an
> exception for 1950s Italian frames though) because they all look the
> same. You might not like Hobbs or Flying Scots machines in which case I
> won't be offended if you say so. It's just an opinion, no better or
> worse than anyone else's and you either take it or leave it.
>
> Bruce
> Dundee
> Scotland
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: 2 Aug 2004 15:33:54 -0700
> From: "Michael Butler" <allondon@rock.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR] Claud Butlers Methods of Frame Construction
> Message-ID:
> <F369700C_56F8_4ADE_9D39_A7DBD15260B2@webmail.loadmail.load.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 11
>
>
> During this debate on Claud Butler welded and bi-laminated frame constr=
> uction there has been some claims made on behalf of the added strenght =
> due to the bi-laminated method of construction=2E=20
>
> To quote Clauds own words in numerous publications and adverts:=20
>
> "CB=2E Bi-laminated construction is the greatest advance in frame buil=
> ding since the evolution of the safety bicycle=2E It is 25% stronger th=
> an the ordinry brazed joint, as proved by the official N=2EP=2EL=2Etens=
> ile test=2E Enables me to build your frame to any desired angles (if pr=
> acticable) without lug pulling=2E Proved sound by practicable demonstra=
> tions on the roads and tracks of the world=2E THIS IS THE TYPE OF FRAME=
> CONSTRUCTION I RECOMMEND=2E"=20
>
> If this is the case why wasn't it employed on his tandem frames? I have=
> seen hundreds of Claud Butler tandems both lugless (welded) and lugged=
> used on the track for road time trials and for touring=2E But never a =
> bi-laminated tandem=2E If it was so strong surely the bi-laminated meth=
> od of construction would make it ideal for tandem useage with the extra=
> strains and loads placed on these frames especially when racing=2E=20
>
> My father witnessed Reg Harris and I think he said Bannister rip the bo=
> ttom brackets out of a Claud Butler tandem when they were racing at Her=
> ne Hill=2E=20
>
> Have I missed a Claud Butler bi-laminated tandem? Is there such a thing=
> in his catalogues? I have owned a Bill Philbrook made bi-laminated tan=
> dem and we all know that Bill worked for Claud's=2E=20
>
> Is there a missing link?=20
>
> =20
>
> Mick Butler Huntingdon Great Britain=20
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> You Rock! Your E-mail should, too=2E Visit Rock=2Ecom!
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 19:48:24 -0400
> From: Paul Williams <castell5@sympatico.ca>
> To: classic rendezvous <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Hercules "Herailleur" info sought!
> Message-ID: <410ED2C8.3040902@sympatico.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 12
>
> Folks,
>
> Has anyone any information on the Hercules "herailleur" gearing which
> appeared around about 1948? There seems to be no information to be
> found. Has anyone used one and, if so, can he or she give me an
> impression please?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul Williams,
> Ottawa, ON, Canada
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 20:00:33 -0400
> From: "Aldo Ross" <aldoross4@siscom.net>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Pic of the Day 3rd August - Demi-Fond 1923
> Message-ID: <00fa01c478ec$e8db07e0$a11bfbd1@Newhouse>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 13
>
> Pic of the Day
> 3rd August=20
> Demi-Fond 1923
>
> Image from the 1923 French professional motor-paced championship, held =
> at the Parc des Princes in Paris. Five-time French champion Georges =
> S=E9r=E8s leads Robert Grassin and Giorgio Colombatto (who was an =
> Italian, so why is he racing the French Nationals?).=20
>
> (I don't know the correct terms, so I'm calling the man on front of the
> = motor the "pilot" and the man on back the "brakeman".)=20
>
>
> The pilot of the second motor isn't wearing a helmet, and only the =
> brakemen wear the heavy leather jacket.=20
>
>
> What is the tank between the brakemen's hands?=20
>
>
> >From "Le Miroir des Sports" No.156, 28th June 1923.
>
> I've left the image large so that the detail would be clearer.
>
>
> http://www.birfield.com/
>
> Aldo Ross
> http://aldo-ross.agreatserver.com/
> Blue Ball, Ohio
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:42:57 -0700
> From: "cmontgomery" <cmontgomery15@cox.net>
> To: "Joe Bender-Zanoni" <joebz@optonline.net>,
> <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods?
> Message-ID: <003401c478f2$d25ff7e0$d18fe744@D687QV01>
> References: <20040802012004.34201.qmail@web52003.mail.yahoo.com>
> <003f01c47859$2ee2e260$d18fe744@D687QV01>
> <002301c4780d$b6142ce0$6400a8c0@jfbender>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 14
>
> My brother-in-law, who gave me the idea, restores vintage autos. He's
> used top quality brake fluid for years to soften hardened rubber parts.
> Of course the stuff is designed to keep the rubber caps on brake
> cylinders from hardening and cracking. If the rubber is pretty well gone
> you have to drop it into a jar of fluid for a few hours. Unfortunately
> the fluid will ooze and stain gloves for quite a while, so I really
> don't recommend it for trying to bring dead hoods back to life. But if
> the hoods are pretty good but beginning to dry and crack, try applying
> thin coats til they soften up. One thing brake fluid won't do is restore
> the strength to the rubber. If it's cracking it'll still rip if you're
> not careful.
>
> Craig Montgomery who does not guarantee results in Tucson or anyplace
> else
>
>
> > Now this really makes sense. Brake fluid has to be compatible with at
> least
> > synthetic rubber seals. Anyone know more? And also what type brake
> > fluid?
> >
> > Joe Bender-Zanoni
> > Great Notch, NJ
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "cmontgomery" <cmontgomery15@cox.net>
> > To: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>; <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> > Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 2:23 AM
> > Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods?
> >
> >
> > > Brake fluid. Been keeping my ol gummies alive for years with just a
> > > very thin coating of the stuff. Desert dryness and UV does a number
> > > on them
> > here.
> > >
> > > Craig Montgomery in Tucson
> > >
> > >
> > > From: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > > Ahoy !
> > > > OK, I admit, a very uptight question.
> > > > As many modern dishwashing soaps and laundry detergents are
> > > > formulated
> > to
> > > disintergrate organic matter, and many oils and greases are
> > > formulated
> to
> > > resist disintegration, what are some good lubricants to assist with
> safely
> > > installing gum hoods onto brake levers?
> > > > I was going to use basic Castille bath soap.
> > > > In a lather,
> > > > Richard Cielec
> > > > Chicago, Illinois
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 10:29:26 +1000
> From: Professore di Pimpissimo <bici_pimp@mac.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]
> So ... My Aussie Speedwell is old .... perhaps older than some of you
> ;-)
> Message-ID: <2D3253CA-E4E4-11D8-9F61-000393B3BF4C@mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v618)
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 15
>
> Hey all,
>
> From the opinion of those who know a fair bit on early Australian
> Speedwells my recent find was built somewhere between 1928 & 1932.
> Consensus is that it dates from before the Dunc Gray 1932 LA Olympic
> bike on display at the Dunc Gray Olympic 2000 Velodrome. Fishtail
> lugwork, fork crown & fork dropouts suggest thus & the serial # is
> consistent with the same. To fully confirm the era of the frame & fork
> I plan to remove the fork & see if there is a corresponding serial #
> stamped on the steerer tube. The headset has me a little ... uh ....
> lets just say its unlike any I have tooled on or can find reference to
> in Sutherlands or Google, maybe its more akin to the current vogue of
> internal headsets. Was our man Rebour still on the absinthe at the time
>
> these were produced? Any pics or diagrams of similar or in practice
> are the early internal Bianchi headset much the same?
>
>
> The parts date mostly from the about the 50's forward. Still not sure
> whether to refurbish with period correct bits or keep as is or other,
> but it needs a little lovin'. In particular i wish to open up the
> bottom bracket & headset for a good clean, grease & re-pack. None of
> the parts indicate damage or undue wear but I'd rather get a better
> look and prep them before I take it out for a whirl. I don't want to do
>
> any damage or get stuck with a bunch of parts being unable to fit it
> all back together & I'd rather know its beyond me before i start, so
> I'm asking for advice that anyone may have with ......
>
>
> - Steel Magistroni cranks - cotter pins (bolted).
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/
>
>
> - Brampton "oiler" bottom brackets. ??
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/
> magistronistamp.jpg
>
>
> - Internal headsets - stripping & reassembly - still have no idea of
> the make (any clues?).
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/
>
>
>
> Any tips or past experience with these, (whattayado with no headset
> locknut), would be appreciated. Also, the year of manuf. for the
> cranks, bb & headset (make?) would be cool to know as well.
>
> The good news is it is a Speedwell, the shiny portion of chrome (or is
> it nickel?) left behind were the "Speedwell" was on the downtube is
> likely to have been painted. Any clairvoyants amongst you care to guess
>
> as to the colour of the Speedwell logo. Some mystery remains as to
> whether the chrome is original or a later replate. What is the done
> thing with older plating - polish or leave as is ??
>
> Pics for the keen eyed amongst you are on the page below.......
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/
>
> Any help or advice is appreciated. Any willing to have a crack at
> suggesting correct era parts are welcome too.
>
> thanks
>
> ciao,
> Ben Kamenjas
> Sydney, Australia
>
> oh ... there are a few interesting bits on Aussie ebay (no relation
> blah blah)
>
> S/Record 26.8 seat post
>
> http://ebay.com/
> ViewItem&category=42319&item=3690949426
>
> Colnago Shoes - NOSNIB size 45.5
>
> http://ebay.com/
> ViewItem&category=42319&item=3692062179
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 18:05:25 -0700
> From: Duane Kennard <d.kennard@adelphia.net>
> To: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]'70s ARGOS questions...
> Message-ID: <33C550C4-E4E9-11D8-82E4-000A95984962@adelphia.net>
> In-Reply-To: <2D3253CA-E4E4-11D8-9F61-000393B3BF4C@mac.com>
> References: <2D3253CA-E4E4-11D8-9F61-000393B3BF4C@mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v618)
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 16
>
>
> Hi boys & girls,
>
> Does anyone out there know about '70s ARGOS frames? What I'm wondering,
> is if they were all customs, or if they built production frames as
> well.
> I recently snagged an ARGOS from mid-late '70s, and I'm wondering
> 'cause it's got what seems an uncommonly short top tube (51ctc, w/53ctc
> seat) for the mid '70s period... I'm thinking maybe it was a custom,
> and ordered that way.... Perfect for me, as I like a short top tube.
> Anyone on the CR list have an ARGOS that they like or dislike? Thanks
> as always,
>
> Duane Kennard
> Los Angeles, USA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2004 01:31:01 +0000
> From: "sam Lingo" <samclingo@hotmail.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods?
> Message-ID: <BAY1-F420iDCVLLmNJc00049bf6@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 17
>
>
> Dot 5 will not eat paint
>
> sam lingo
>
> pleasanton tx
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: Joe Bender-Zanoni <joebz@optonline.net>
>
> >
>
> And also what type brake fluid?
>
> >
>
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living.
> ------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 19:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]TTT Stem Size
> Message-ID: <20040803020046.89020.qmail@web81008.mail.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <20040802141446.46644.qmail@web81009.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 18
>
> Thanks for all the off-list responses. Others also report problems with
> some, but not all these stems. The most likely explanation offered was
> that they were available both for alloy bars (presumably 26.0) and in
> 25.4 for steel bars. This sounds plausible, since these stems were
> probably most often used on the track, and steel track bars were still
> common in the 60's. So it would seem I should use this stem with 25.4
> bars like British GB or JIS dimension Japanese bars of which Nitto still
> makes some very fine ones.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Houston, TX
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> End of Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 20, Issue 7
> ************************************************